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Gothic Mysteries & Ancient Stones: Whitby Abbey & Rudston Monolith (Day 19)

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Introduction

Day 19 was our last full touring day in England. As we began the final leg of the drive back toward the London area, we squeezed in two fascinating and very different historic stops that perfectly bookended our time in the north.

Day 19: Whitby Abbey & Rudston Monolith

We started the morning at the Gothic ruins of Whitby Abbey. Made famous as a key inspiration for Bram Stoker’s Dracula, the site felt even more atmospheric thanks to the morning fog, which gave the towering ruins the perfect sense of mystery. Standing on the clifftop high above the town, the skeletal remains of the abbey church are truly spectacular.

Further down the road we stopped at the Rudston Monolith — the tallest megalith (standing stone) in the United Kingdom and a site we’ve seen several times on the History Channel’s Ancient Aliens. The massive stone stands in the churchyard of All Saints Church, and the old church and surrounding cemetery were equally intriguing. It was a quiet, thought-provoking stop that felt like stepping back thousands of years.

With our English adventures complete, we’re now looking forward to seeing what adventures Ireland holds!

Helpful Tips for Visiting Whitby Abbey & Rudston Monolith

• Whitby Abbey is managed by English Heritage — book tickets online in advance, especially in peak season, to save time and sometimes money.

• The classic approach to the abbey is via the famous 199 Steps, but there is also a less steep route and a car park entrance if preferred.

• Wear sturdy shoes and layers — the abbey sits on an exposed clifftop and can be windy even on clear days.

• Fog or mist (common in the morning) can make the ruins look especially dramatic for photos.

• Rudston Monolith is free to visit and stands in the churchyard of All Saints Church — parking is limited roadside parking in the village.

• Allow time to walk around both the monolith and the church/cemetery; the contrast between the prehistoric stone and the medieval church is striking.

• These two stops work well as a pair on a driving day heading south from the Whitby area.

Fun Facts

Whitby Abbey

• The first monastery on this site was founded in AD 657 by Abbess Hild (St Hilda) and became one of the most important religious centres in Anglo-Saxon England.

• In 664 it hosted the Synod of Whitby, which decided that the English church would follow Roman rather than Celtic Christian practices (including the date of Easter).

• The ruins we see today are mainly from the 13th-century Gothic Benedictine abbey, which was suppressed by Henry VIII in 1539.

• Bram Stoker stayed in Whitby in 1890; the dramatic abbey ruins, the churchyard of St Mary’s, and a shipwreck he read about all helped inspire key scenes and the name “Dracula” in his 1897 novel.

Rudston Monolith

• At over 25 feet (7.6–8 m) tall, it is the tallest standing stone (monolith) in the United Kingdom.

• It dates to the Late Neolithic or Early Bronze Age (roughly 4,000+ years ago) and is made of gritstone that was likely transported from several miles away.

• The name “Rudston” comes from the Old English “rood-stane” (cross-stone), suggesting the prehistoric stone was later adapted for Christian use.

• All Saints Church was built around 1100 AD deliberately next to the already ancient stone — a common practice of placing churches on pre-Christian sacred sites.

• Local legend claims the Devil threw the stone at the church but missed, leaving it standing in the churchyard.

Final Thoughts

Day 19 was a fitting close to our time exploring England. From the fog-shrouded Gothic drama of Whitby Abbey to the quiet mystery of the ancient Rudston Monolith, these final stops reminded us why this country is so rich in layered history. We’re grateful for every mile and every site, and now turn our eyes toward Ireland with excitement for the next chapter.

Next Up:

Crossing to Ireland and beginning a whole new set of adventures on the Emerald Isle!​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​

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Save Money on Historic Sites and Attractions with Visitor & Explorer Passes Around the World

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If you plan to travel to other countries, I highly recommend getting a visitors pass or explorer pass. These passes often provide discounted or free admission to historic sites, museums, national parks, castles, and cultural attractions. The fees help support the preservation and maintenance of these places for future generations.

My husband and I have personally used the English Heritage Overseas Visitor Pass and the Historic Scotland Explorer Pass. They saved us a significant amount on entry fees (and parking at some sites) during our trip to England and Scotland. Similar passes exist in many other countries and can be one of the best ways for travelers to explore more while spending less.

Below is a list of popular visitor passes, heritage passes, museum passes, and national parks passes by country or region. Always check the official websites for current prices, validity periods, what’s included, booking requirements, and any reciprocal benefits, as details can change.

United Kingdom Heritage and Visitor Passes

•  England: English Heritage Overseas Visitor Pass – Unlimited access to over 100 castles, prehistoric monuments, and historic sites (including Stonehenge and Dover Castle) for 9 or 16 consecutive days.

•  England, Wales & Northern Ireland: National Trust Touring Pass – Free entry to hundreds of historic houses, gardens, and countryside properties for overseas visitors (short-term options available).

•  Scotland: Historic Scotland Explorer Pass – Access to major castles, abbeys, and ancient sites such as Edinburgh Castle and Skara Brae.

•  Wales: Cadw membership or Explorer options – Welsh castles, abbeys, and historic monuments (often with reciprocal benefits for English Heritage and Historic Scotland members).

Ireland

•  OPW Heritage Card (Office of Public Works) – Discounted or free entry to many of Ireland’s most important historic sites and properties.

France

•  Passion Monuments (Centre des Monuments Nationaux) – Access to a wide range of French historic monuments and sites.

•  Paris Museum Pass – Excellent for museums and monuments in and around Paris (Louvre, Orsay, Versailles, and more).

Netherlands

•  Museumkaart (Museum Pass) – Free entry to permanent collections at hundreds of museums across the country.

•  I amsterdam City Card – Combines museums, attractions, and public transport in Amsterdam.

Canada

•  Parks Canada Discovery Pass – Unlimited admission to national parks and historic sites across Canada for a full year.

United States

•  America the Beautiful – the National Parks and Federal Recreational Lands Pass – Covers entrance fees at U.S. national parks and many federal recreational sites (note: non-resident pricing and rules may differ starting in 2026).

Other Countries with Useful Passes

•  Australia: State-based National Parks annual passes and National Trust of Australia memberships (some offer international reciprocal benefits through the International National Trusts Organisation).

•  New Zealand: Heritage New Zealand Pouhere Taonga sites and memberships, plus Department of Conservation (DOC) passes for parks and outdoor sites.

•  Italy: Regional options such as the Firenze Card (Florence museums and attractions) and Campania Artecard (Pompeii, Herculaneum, and Naples-area sites). Italy does not currently have one single nationwide heritage pass.

•  Germany: Museumspass Berlin (covers many top museums in the city) and various regional museum cards.

•  Costa Rica: Pasaporte Cultural Costa Rica – A free stamp-collecting cultural passport that encourages visits to 35 heritage and cultural sites across the country.

Tips for Choosing and Using These Passes

•  Calculate potential savings by adding up the individual admission prices for the sites you plan to visit. Many short-term visitor passes pay for themselves after just two or three major attractions.

•  Look for short-term “overseas visitor,” “touring,” or “explorer” versions if you are not a resident.

•  Some passes also include free or discounted parking, events, or shop discounts.

•  City-focused passes (such as Go City options in many destinations, London Pass, or local city cards) work well if your trip centers on one major city rather than widespread heritage sites. (Separate post COMING SOON.)

•  Reciprocal membership benefits sometimes exist between organizations in different countries. Many National Trust-style organisations belong to the International National Trusts Organisation (INTO). Holding a membership in one often gives you free or discounted entry at properties run by other member trusts worldwide. Check the INTO website and the reciprocal benefits listed by your specific National Trust for the latest details.

These visitor passes, heritage passes, museum passes, and national parks passes make it easier and more affordable to experience the history, culture, and nature of the places you visit. Have you used any of these (or similar ones) on your travels? Share your experiences in the comments—I’d love to hear what worked best for you!

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A Day of Ruins, Seaside Charm & Sunset Views: Rievaulx Abbey, Robin Hood’s Bay & Whitby (Day 18)

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Introduction

Day 18 started under a bit of rain and a lot of fog, but that didn’t stop us from heading out to explore more of North Yorkshire. What began as a grey morning turned into a beautiful day filled with stunning historic sites, quaint coastal villages, and one last classic English dinner before we leave England.

Day 18: Rievaulx Abbey, Robin Hood’s Bay & Whitby Highlights

We woke up to rain and thick fog but pressed on to Rievaulx Abbey. Wow! What a beautiful site. The weather cleared up nicely as we wandered the extensive ruins, and I was struck by the time and effort it takes to excavate and preserve these historic buildings and artifacts. The scale and setting of the abbey in its peaceful valley were truly impressive.

On our way back to Whitby we stopped at Robin Hood’s Bay, a quaint little seaside village, to take in the views of the North Sea. The tightly packed cottages tumbling down the steep hillside toward the water give it a storybook feel.

We made another quick stop to see the Larpool Viaduct before heading back to our flat. This impressive brick structure spans the River Esk valley and is a striking piece of Victorian engineering.

In Whitby we decided on one last fish & chips dinner before leaving England (although we opted for salad instead of potatoes today). First, though, we walked up the hill to see the Whalebone Arch. From there you get a classic view across the way to Whitby Abbey, which we will check out tomorrow.

After dinner we took a walk around town and found ourselves on the other side of the inlet for a beautiful sunset. A perfect way to close out the day.

Helpful Tips for Visiting These Spots

• Check the weather forecast — Yorkshire weather can change quickly from fog and rain to clear skies.

• Rievaulx Abbey is managed by English Heritage; check opening times and consider buying tickets in advance in peak season.

• Parking at Robin Hood’s Bay is limited at the top of the village — the lower streets are very narrow and steep, so it’s best to walk down.

• Wear comfortable shoes for exploring abbey ruins, village lanes, and the hills of Whitby.

• Larpool Viaduct is now part of a walking/cycling path (the Cinder Track) — easy to access for a quick photo stop.

• The Whalebone Arch is on West Cliff and offers one of the best framed views of Whitby Abbey — great for photos at any time of day, especially near sunset.

• Fish and chips are a Whitby classic, but many places offer lighter options if you prefer.

• Allow time to simply wander Whitby’s streets and harbour — the town rewards unhurried exploration.

Fun Facts

Rievaulx Abbey

• Founded in 1132, it was the first Cistercian abbey in the north of England.

• Under its most famous abbot, Aelred of Rievaulx (1147–1167), the community grew to around 140 monks and 500 lay brothers at its peak.

• The abbey was suppressed in 1538 during Henry VIII’s Dissolution of the Monasteries. The extensive ruins that remain are among the finest surviving Cistercian buildings in England and were later admired by Romantic artists and writers.

Robin Hood’s Bay

• The origin of the name is uncertain and there is no solid evidence that the legendary Robin Hood ever visited.

• In the 18th century it was one of the busiest smuggling communities on the Yorkshire coast — locals used the maze of narrow alleys and alleged connecting passages so effectively that a bale of silk was said to be able to travel from the beach to the top of the village without seeing daylight.

• It was once a more important port than Whitby on some early sea charts.

Larpool Viaduct

• Also known as the Esk Valley Viaduct, this 13-arch brick structure was completed in 1884 for the Scarborough & Whitby Railway.

• It is 915 feet (279 m) long and rises 120 feet (37 m) above the River Esk. It was built using around five million bricks.

• The railway closed in 1965; the viaduct now forms part of the popular Cinder Track walking and cycling route. It is even mentioned in Bram Stoker’s Dracula.

Whalebone Arch, Whitby

• The arch commemorates Whitby’s important 18th- and 19th-century whaling industry.

• Whale jawbones were traditionally displayed as a sign of a successful voyage. The current arch (the third to stand on this spot) frames a classic view of Whitby Abbey across the harbour.

• Earlier versions used real whale bones; more recent discussions have involved replacing them with durable replicas for ethical and practical reasons.

Final Thoughts

Even with a damp and foggy start, Day 18 delivered beautiful historic sites, charming coastal scenery, and a lovely sunset. Rievaulx Abbey was a real highlight, and the combination of Robin Hood’s Bay, the viaduct, and Whitby’s classic views made for a satisfying and relaxed day. One last fish-and-chips meal felt like the perfect send-off to England.

Next Up:

Our final touring day in England — exploring the atmospheric Gothic ruins of Whitby Abbey (the inspiration for Bram Stoker’s Dracula), a stop at the mysterious Rudston Monolith (the tallest megalith in the UK), and then the drive south toward the London area as we prepare for our adventures in Ireland.​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​

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Farewell Scotland & Hadrian’s Wall: Heading Back to England (Days 16–17)

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Introduction

After an incredible time in the Scottish Highlands, it was time to start heading south. Days 16 and 17 marked our farewell to Scotland and a return to England, with some powerful historic stops along the way. This stretch of the journey offers a perfect mix of scenic coastal views, world-class Roman ruins, and the charming seaside atmosphere of Whitby—ideal for anyone planning a Scotland-to-England road trip or exploring Hadrian’s Wall highlights.

Day 16: Leaving Scotland

This was a travel day as we drove south from Inverness. We didn’t have any major planned stops—no castles, abbeys or hikes—but we did pull over for a foggy photo at Sea View Point near Eyemouth. The mist over the water created a moody, atmospheric goodbye to Scotland. It felt bittersweet—we had seen so much, yet there was clearly still more to explore in the future.

Day 17: Hadrian’s Wall & Arrival in Whitby

Today we were on our way to Whitby, England. Along the way we stopped off at Chesters Roman Fort & Museum and Hadrian’s Wall, two amazingly beautiful sites chock full of ancient ruins, artifacts, and history. It’s hard to fathom life as it was nearly 2000 years ago. I personally have loved the architecture of the castles, churches, and abbeys—they make today’s buildings look like ugly, boring boxes in comparison.

Whitby is a cute little seaside town in North Yorkshire and is quite different from other places we’ve stayed. After arriving at our Airbnb we strolled downtown and along the docks to the Magpie Cafe, where we enjoyed a nice seafood dinner. We tried the crab bisque, fish pie topped with mashed potatoes and cheese, and a grilled fish medley—all delicious! We were so full and tired afterwards that we walked back to our apartment and were in bed before 10pm.

Helpful Tips for This Route

•  The English Heritage Pass works well for Hadrian’s Wall sites including Chesters Roman Fort & Museum—membership or a multi-day pass can pay for itself quickly if you’re visiting several properties.

•  Whitby is a popular town—book your accommodation in advance, especially in the warmer months or around peak events.

•  The seafood at Magpie Cafe is excellent, but expect a wait if you go during peak hours. Booking ahead is wise for the restaurant (there’s also a takeaway option next door); portions are generous.

•  Allow plenty of driving time from the Inverness area south—routes via the A1 or more scenic options can take 6–8+ hours depending on stops and traffic. Fuel up and check weather, as coastal fog and northern English weather can change quickly.

•  At Chesters, don’t miss the bath house and the museum; wear sturdy shoes as paths can be uneven. Parking is available (often refundable with entry). Combine with a short walk along nearby stretches of Hadrian’s Wall for the best experience.

•  Near Eyemouth / Sea View Point, keep an eye out for seals and consider a brief detour to the harbour or coastal path if time allows—it’s a quieter alternative to busier Borders spots.

•  Practical note: English Heritage sites often offer online booking discounts, and checking opening times in advance is essential as hours vary by season.

Fun Facts

Around Eyemouth / Sea View Point: The Berwickshire coast has a dramatic history. In October 1881, the Eyemouth Fishing Disaster claimed 129 local lives in a sudden storm (out of 189 total deaths along the coast), leaving many widows and children. Today you’ll find moving “Widows and Bairns” memorial sculptures along the shoreline. The area is also known for seals, seabirds, and earlier smuggling lore.

Hadrian’s Wall & Chesters Roman Fort: Hadrian’s Wall stretches about 73 miles (80 Roman miles) across northern England and was begun in AD 122 on the orders of Emperor Hadrian. It took roughly six years to build and once stood around 15 feet (4.5 m) high in places. Chesters Roman Fort (Roman name Cilurnum) was a cavalry fort built around AD 124 to house about 500 soldiers and their horses. It later became home to the Second Asturians, a unit from northern Spain. One of the standout features is the exceptionally well-preserved bath house beside the River North Tyne—among the best Roman military baths in Britain. When excavated in the 1880s, workers discovered the remains of 33 human skeletons (plus two horses and a dog) in or near the baths; the exact story behind them remains a mystery. The on-site Clayton Museum holds one of the finest collections of inscriptions and sculptures from the Wall.

Whitby & Magpie Cafe: Whitby is a classic North Yorkshire seaside town with a strong fishing heritage and a lively harbour atmosphere. The Magpie Café occupies an 18th-century merchant’s house (built around 1750) with historic links to the Scoresby whaling family and later used as a pilotage office. It has been a café/restaurant since the late 1930s and is renowned for fresh local seafood and classic fish and chips (often fried in traditional beef dripping).

Final Thoughts

These two days felt like a gentle transition. Leaving Scotland was a little sad, but Hadrian’s Wall and the cozy charm of Whitby gave us plenty to look forward to in the final stretch of our trip. The mix of Roman history and seaside atmosphere was the perfect bridge between Scotland and our last days in England. Whether you’re chasing ancient ruins, coastal views, or simply great seafood, this route delivers memorable moments.​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​

Next Up:

Our final full touring day in England, including the atmospheric Whitby Abbey and the Rudston Monolith (featured on Ancient Aliens). NEXT…

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Epic Day on the Isle of Skye: Old Man of Storr, Fairy Glen & Eilean Donan (Day 15)

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Introduction

Day 15 was one of the biggest and most anticipated days of our entire trip — a full day exploring the Isle of Skye. We knew it would be long, so we set our alarms for 5am to get an early start.

Day 15: The Isle of Skye Adventure

The drive along Loch Ness in the early morning fog was atmospheric. We arrived at our first destination, The Old Man of Storr, just before 9am. This is the most popular hike on Skye for good reason. It’s a 3-mile loop with about 1,050 feet of elevation gain. The rock formation itself is 165 feet tall and legend says it’s the thumb of a giant buried beneath the mountain. The views from the top were incredible, though quite challenging — the photos don’t fully do it justice.

Next, we drove counter-clockwise along the coast and stopped at Kilt Rock and Mealt Falls. The waterfall cascading directly into the sea was dramatic. We also got a good view of the Quiraing area, though we were too tired to do that hike.

We cut across the island on a narrow single-lane road (very typical for Skye) and found a beautiful spot overlooking the harbor of Idrigill, Portree to enjoy the lunch we had packed.

Later, Jerry and I hiked around The Fairy Glen while Dave and Karen rested in the car. This smaller site has a whimsical, almost storybook feel with its rolling hills and winding paths.

Our final stop was Eilean Donan Castle — one of the most photographed castles in Scotland. It was blown up in the past and beautifully rebuilt between 1911 and 1936. While we couldn’t take photos inside, the exterior views were impressive and very romantic.

We had a very long but rewarding day. Back at our cottage we made Mexican omelettes, enjoyed some wine, and were in bed by 11pm, completely worn out.

Helpful Tips for Visiting the Isle of Skye

•  Start very early — the roads and popular spots get crowded quickly.

•  The single-lane roads with passing places take some getting used to.

•  Pack lunch and snacks — good food options are limited in some areas.

•  Check the weather forecast, as conditions can change fast on Skye.

•  Prioritize the hikes based on your energy level (Old Man of Storr is steep!).

•  Wear sturdy hiking boots for the Old Man of Storr — the path is rocky and steep in places.

•  Parking at major spots like the Old Man of Storr and Kilt Rock can fill up quickly (some have fees).

•  The Fairy Glen is a shorter, gentler walk — perfect when you need a break.

•  Bring layers and rain gear; Skye weather is famously unpredictable.

Fun Facts

Old Man of Storr

•  It forms part of an ancient volcanic plug and was shaped by one of Britain’s largest ancient landslides, creating the dramatic Trotternish Ridge.

•  In Gaelic it’s known as Bodach an Stòrr (“Old Man of the Storr”).

•  The rock spire itself was first successfully climbed only in 1955.

Kilt Rock and Mealt Falls

•  Kilt Rock gets its name from the striking hexagonal basalt columns that resemble the pleats of a traditional Scottish kilt.

•  Mealt Falls is one of the relatively rare waterfalls worldwide that plunge directly into the ocean.

•  Before modern navigation tools, these distinctive cliffs served as an important landmark for sailors.

Fairy Glen

•  The whimsical landscape of cone-shaped hills, knolls, and small lochans was formed by ancient landslides and erosion — it’s often described as a “mini-Quiraing.”

•  Despite the magical name (Bail nan Cnoc in Gaelic, meaning “village of the hills”), there aren’t specific ancient fairy legends tied to this exact spot — it simply feels enchanted!

•  Look out for the natural basalt outcrop that looks like a tiny crumbling castle. (Visitors sometimes create grass spirals, but it’s best not to, as it causes erosion.)

The Quiraing walk

•  The Quiraing is part of the same massive ancient landslip that created the Trotternish Ridge (one of the largest in Britain). It features otherworldly rock formations like “The Table” (a flat grassy plateau), “The Needle” (a sharp 120ft/37m pinnacle), and “The Prison” — all still slowly moving a few millimeters each year!

•  Its Gaelic name roughly means “the pillared or folded place.” The popular circuit walk is typically 4–6.5 km (2.5–4 miles) long with around 350–400m (1,150–1,300 ft) of elevation gain, taking 2–4 hours depending on your pace and how far you explore.

Eilean Donan Castle

•  Named after Saint Donnán, a 7th-century Celtic saint who may have established a religious site on the tidal island.

•  The romantic structure we see today is a careful 20th-century reconstruction carried out by Lieutenant Colonel John MacRae-Gilstrap, who used original stones wherever possible.

•  It sits where three sea lochs meet and has appeared in films like Highlander.

Final Thoughts

Skye lived up to all the hype. The dramatic landscapes, hikes, and castles made it feel like we were driving through a movie. It was exhausting but absolutely one of the highlights of our entire 3-week trip.

Next Up:

Our journey back south, saying goodbye to Scotland, crossing Hadrian’s Wall, and arriving in the charming seaside town of Whitby. NEXT…

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A Relaxed Day Around Loch Ness: Urquhart Castle & Touchstone Maze (Day 14)

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Introduction

After several big driving and sightseeing days, we decided to take a slower pace on Day 14. We were based in a cottage just south of Inverness, which gave us a peaceful base to explore the Loch Ness area without rushing.

Day 14: Loch Ness & A More Relaxed Pace

We slept in a bit and took our time getting started. Our first stop was Urquhart Castle, beautifully situated right on the shores of Loch Ness. The ruins are impressive, and the views across the loch are exactly what you picture when you think of Scotland. Unfortunately, we did not spot Nessie — much to our disappointment!

Later, we drove a bit farther north to visit the Touchstone Maze. This is a more modern stone circle built in 1995, featuring 81 large rocks sourced from different quarries across Scotland. It’s a bit off the beaten path but worth the short walk. The setting was peaceful and the stones had a nice presence.

We returned to our cottage in the afternoon and cooked a comforting dinner of “Marry Me Chicken” with salad. These home-cooked evenings were becoming one of the highlights of the trip — relaxing, affordable, and a nice break from eating out.

Tips for a Loch Ness Day

•  Urquhart Castle is very popular and requires tickets — book online in advance for the best prices and to guarantee entry (around £14–16 for adults). Arrive early or later in the day to avoid the biggest crowds.

•  The Touchstone Maze is completely free and rarely crowded, making it a nice contrast to more famous (and ticketed) sites.

•  Bring binoculars if you’re hoping to spot Nessie (we had no luck!).

•  Having a kitchen in your accommodation makes it easy to have relaxed dinners after long days.

Fun Facts

•  Urquhart Castle dates back to the 13th century and was once one of Scotland’s largest castles. It changed hands repeatedly during the Wars of Scottish Independence, with control passing between Scots and English forces. In 1692, the last government troops deliberately blew up the gatehouse to prevent Jacobites from using it.

•  The first recorded “monster” sighting associated with Loch Ness dates to around AD 565, when St. Columba reportedly encountered a water beast attacking a swimmer and commanded it to retreat.

•  Loch Ness holds more fresh water than all the lakes in England and Wales combined. Its peat-stained waters stay around 5–6°C year-round, never freeze over, and create dark depths perfect for hiding mysteries.

•  The Touchstone Maze’s design incorporates astronomical alignments, including connections to the midsummer sunrise and northerly moonrise, blending geology, art, and ancient understandings of the cosmos.

Final Thoughts from Day 14

This was exactly the kind of day we needed. It was nice to slow down, enjoy beautiful scenery without a packed schedule, and recharge a little. Loch Ness and Urquhart Castle lived up to the hype, even without a monster sighting!​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​

Next Up:

Our biggest adventure yet — an early 5am start for a full day on the Isle of Skye, including the Old Man of Storr hike, Fairy Glen, and Eilean Donan Castle. NEXT…

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Banff, Bow Fiddle Rock & Outlander Sites: Road to Inverness (Day 13)

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Introduction

Day 13 was another beautiful road trip day along Scotland’s northeast coast as we made our way toward Inverness. We stayed in a nice little flat in Banff the night before, right by the North Sea, which gave us a peaceful start to the day.

Day 13: Coastal Drives & Outlander Connections

Jerry and I took a quick morning stroll to the beach while Dave and Karen got ready to hit the road. The weather was unusually warm at 75 degrees — we felt very lucky!

Our first stop was Bow Fiddle Rock, a striking natural sea arch. The warm sunshine and waves made it a highlight of the morning. From there we continued to Elgin Cathedral, another impressive ruined cathedral with interesting artifacts and architecture. It has more surviving medieval memorials and effigies than any other Scottish cathedral.

For all the fans of the show Outlander, we made sure to stop at Clava Cairns. This site, with its standing stones surrounded by tall trees and farmland, was captivating and atmospheric — it’s widely believed to have inspired Diana Gabaldon’s Craigh na Dun. The nearby Culloden Viaduct (pictured with yellow flowers foreground) made the whole area even more scenic.

We also made a quick stop at Culloden Battlefield. While it was quite commercialized and busy with tourists (a bit of a contrast to the quieter sites), it was still a thought-provoking place to visit.

We finally arrived at our cottage just south of Inverness in the late afternoon. After a long day we made lettuce-wrapped tacos for dinner, then headed into Inverness for a quick look around and to catch the sunset.

Helpful Tips for This Route

• Bow Fiddle Rock is worth the stop — especially on a sunny day.

• Clava Cairns is free and relatively quiet compared to other popular sites.

• Culloden Battlefield can get crowded, so early or late in the day is better if possible. **Note that it is managed by the National Trust for Scotland (NTS), so an NTS membership gives you free entry here (while the Historic Scotland Explorer Pass covers most of the other sites on this day).

• The Historic Scotland Explorer Pass is very useful for historic site entries.

Fun Facts

•  Bow Fiddle Rock: This dramatic sea arch gets its name because it perfectly resembles the tip of a violin or fiddle bow. Formed by the relentless force of the North Sea waves, it stands about 50 feet tall and is a favorite for photographers on the Moray Coast.

•  Elgin Cathedral (known as the “Lantern of the North”): Founded in 1224, this was once one of Scotland’s most magnificent cathedrals. It features a well-preserved octagonal chapter house and intricate medieval carvings.

•  Clava Cairns: These Bronze Age burial cairns are around 4,000 years old, with passage graves aligned to the winter solstice. The standing stones and woodland setting inspired the time-travel site in Outlander.

•  Culloden Viaduct: The longest masonry railway viaduct in Scotland (about 1,800 feet long with 29 arches), opened in 1898 and still in use today — a stunning landmark near Clava Cairns.

•  Culloden Battlefield: Site of the last pitched battle fought on British soil in 1746. The Jacobite defeat here in under an hour changed the course of Highland history.

•  Banff: A historic royal burgh with roots in the 12th century, once a busy North Sea trading port famous for exporting salmon to Europe.

Final Thoughts from Day 13

This day had a great mix of natural beauty, historic ruins, and Outlander nostalgia. Bow Fiddle Rock and Clava Cairns were especially memorable. We were starting to feel the pull of the Highlands and were excited to explore more around Inverness in the coming days.​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​

Next Up:

A more relaxed day around Loch Ness, including Urquhart Castle and the Touchstone Maze, followed by our big adventure on the Isle of Skye. NEXT…

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Northeast Scotland Coast Drive: Arbroath Abbey, Dunnottar Castle & Stone Circles (Day 12)

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Introduction

On Day 12 we left Edinburgh and began our drive north and west toward Inverness. This was one of our favorite road trip days in Scotland, filled with dramatic coastal views and historic sites.

Day 12: Coastal Scotland Adventure

We started the day heading up the eastern coast. Our first stop was Arbroath Abbey, a towering medieval ruin. The red sandstone walls standing against the sky were quite striking.

Next, we visited Dunnottar Castle — hands down one of the most dramatic locations of the entire trip. The castle sits 160 feet up on cliffs overlooking the North Sea with crystal-clear water below. The views were breathtaking, and it’s easy to see why it has been used in so many films and photos. We spent a long time walking around and soaking in the scenery.

After a full morning of exploring, we stopped for an early dinner at The Shepherds Rest, enjoying burgers and fish & chips. We then made our way to East Aquhorthies Stone Circle. We were the only people there, which made it feel extra magical. The peaceful setting in the open countryside was a lovely contrast to some of the busier sites.

Helpful Tips for the Northeast Coast Drive

•  Dunnottar Castle is a must-visit — arrive with plenty of time to explore and take photos, as the steep path and cliffs require good footwear and caution, especially with wind or rain.

•  Check the weather before heading out, as coastal winds can be strong and change quickly.

•  The English Heritage Pass does not cover Scottish sites, so you’ll need the Historic Scotland Explorer Pass or pay individual entry fees (Dunnottar and Arbroath have reasonable separate tickets).

•  Bring layers — it can be quite windy along the coast, even on sunny days.

•  For stone circles like East Aquhorthies, wear sturdy shoes for uneven grassy terrain and consider a small donation if there’s an honesty box for road maintenance.

•  Plan your fuel and snacks, as services can be sparse between sites; pack water and binoculars for wildlife spotting along the cliffs.

Fun Facts

Banff (our stop for the night): This historic royal burgh on the northern coast dates back to at least the 12th century and was a busy trading port exporting salmon to Europe. Its name likely ties to Gaelic roots linked to a “holy woman,” reflected in the town’s coat of arms featuring the Virgin Mary. The area has deep maritime history, including one of the UK’s largest surviving ice houses used for salmon storage.

Final Thoughts

This day reminded us why Scotland’s northeast coast is so special. The combination of dramatic clifftop castles and quiet, ancient stone circles created a perfect balance. We arrived at our little flat in Banff (on the northern coast) tired but very happy with the day. It was one of those perfect road-trip days where history, scenery, and solitude all came together beautifully.​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​

Next Up:

Our final day on the northeast coast before arriving in Inverness, including Bow Fiddle Rock, Elgin Cathedral, Clava Cairns, and Culloden Battlefield. NEXT…

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The Kelpies, Falkirk Wheel & Wallace Monument: Day Trips from Edinburgh (Day 11)

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Day 11: Edinburgh Day Trip to The Kelpies, Falkirk Wheel & Wallace Monument

Introduction

On Day 11 we decided to explore some of the unique attractions north of Edinburgh. This day gave us a nice mix of modern wonders and Scottish history — very different from the ancient castles and stone circles we’d seen earlier.

Day 11: Our Day Trip Adventures

We started by driving north to see The Kelpies — the largest equine sculptures in the world. These two giant horse heads stand 100 feet tall and weigh 300 tons each. You don’t fully appreciate their size until you’re standing right next to them. It’s an impressive installation and definitely a must-see in the area.

From there we made a quick stop at The Falkirk Wheel — the world’s only rotating boat lift. It’s a fascinating piece of modern engineering. Watching it rotate to move boats between different canal levels was really cool.

Next, we visited the Wallace National Monument, built in honor of Sir William Wallace (yes, the Braveheart one). We climbed the monument for great views, and it definitely made us want to watch the movie again!

We returned to our apartment in Edinburgh later in the day, dropped off the car, and walked into town for a cold beer in a nice plaza. It was a beautiful evening, and we enjoyed some relaxed people-watching. For dinner we made omelets using leftover burger ingredients and enjoyed keto candied pecans for dessert.

Tips for These Attractions

•  The Kelpies are free to visit and easy to reach from Edinburgh.

•  Check the Falkirk Wheel schedule if you want to see it in action.

•  Wear comfortable shoes if you plan to climb the Wallace Monument. Book tickets online 
in advance to secure your entry time slot.

•  Having a car makes this day much easier, though buses are also possible.

Fun Facts

•  The Kelpies: These majestic sculptures are named after two real Clydesdale horses — Duke (the one looking down) and Baron — that inspired sculptor Andy Scott. They were built on-site in just 90 days using over 900 stainless steel “scales” per head. The mythical kelpie from Scottish folklore is a shape-shifting water spirit that could take the form of a horse and possessed the strength of at least 10 horses — a perfect symbol for the heavy horses that once powered Scotland’s canals and industries.

•  The Falkirk Wheel: This engineering marvel uses roughly the same energy as boiling eight kettles for each full rotation (about 1.5 kWh) and can lift boats 35 meters in just minutes. Each gondola holds around 500,000 liters of water — equivalent to an Olympic swimming pool! It was opened by Queen Elizabeth II in 2002 as part of efforts to reconnect Scotland’s historic canals. The design draws inspiration from a Celtic axe, a ship’s propeller, and even the ribcage of a whale.

•  Wallace National Monument: The tower stands 220 feet (67 meters) tall and contains 246 spiral steps to reach the top. Inside you’ll find William Wallace’s legendary sword (over 5 feet long and weighing more than 5 pounds), along with the Hall of Heroes featuring busts of famous Scots like Robert the Bruce, Mary Slessor, and others. The monument was funded entirely by public donations and took eight years to build, opening in 1869 — exactly 572 years after Wallace’s victory at the Battle of Stirling Bridge. 

Final Thoughts

This day was a fun change of pace. The Kelpies and Falkirk Wheel showed us Scotland’s more modern side, while the Wallace Monument connected us back to the country’s historic heroes. It was another solid day of variety on our trip.

Next Up:

Our northeast Scotland coastal drive toward Inverness, including dramatic castles like Dunnottar and peaceful stone circles. NEXT…

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First Full Day in Edinburgh: Royal Mile, Castle & Scottish Impressions (Day 10)

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We woke up on Day 10 to a view of Arthur’s Seat from our apartment window. After days of driving and exploring remote ruins, it felt wonderfully refreshing to be based in a vibrant city again. Scotland was already winning us over.

We began the morning with a gentle uphill walk along the Royal Mile to Edinburgh Castle for our 9:30am tour. Along the way, we passed the charming little 16th-century Queen Mary’s Bathhouse, a picturesque turreted building just outside the Palace of Holyroodhouse.

The castle itself felt more like a living museum than the ancient ruins we’d seen earlier in the trip, but its position high above the city delivered spectacular views. The cannon gunports offered perfect “framed” shots of the rooftops and spires below, and we were charmed by the historic Dog Cemetery—dating back to 1837—with its tiny headstones honoring soldiers’ and officers’ loyal dogs (and a few other pets).

After leaving the castle, we wandered down Cockburn Street and enjoyed a relaxed lunch of wine and charcuterie at a cozy spot. Feeling revived, we made one of the best decisions of the trip: hopping on a double-decker hop-on hop-off bus tour. It gave us an excellent overview of the city’s layout and helped us decide where to spend more time. After walking more than six miles already, the ride was a very welcome rest for our feet.

The bus route took us past several standout landmarks, including the towering Scott Monument and Calton Hill. We hopped off to explore the hill’s impressive monuments: the Nelson Monument, the Dugald Stewart Monument, and the unfinished Scottish National Monument.

We returned to our apartment in the late afternoon and cooked a simple but satisfying dinner—bunless burgers topped with cheddar, bacon, and eggs. Having a kitchen during this trip has been an absolute blessing after long days of sightseeing.

Practical Tips for Edinburgh

• Book Edinburgh Castle tickets in advance, especially for morning slots—they sell out quickly. (This destination is included with the Historic Scotland Explorer Pass.)

• Take a hop-on hop-off bus tour on your first day. It’s one of the smartest ways to get oriented.

• The Royal Mile has some steep sections—comfortable walking shoes are essential.

• Staying somewhere with a kitchen helps you balance restaurant meals, save money, and recharge after busy days.

Fun Facts

•  Arthur’s Seat is an extinct volcano that last erupted around 350 million years ago. At 251 meters (823 feet) tall, it offers some of the best views over Edinburgh. In 1836, boys discovered 17 mysterious miniature coffins containing tiny wooden figures in a cave on its slopes—their purpose is still unknown.

•  The Royal Mile is actually 1.07 miles long and follows the ridge of an ancient volcano, which explains its steep sections.

•  Queen Mary’s Bath House (16th century) is more likely a garden pavilion or summer house than an actual bathhouse. The story of Mary, Queen of Scots bathing in wine or goat’s milk here is a charming legend with no historical proof.

•  Edinburgh Castle has been besieged at least 26 times, making it one of the most attacked places in Britain. It sits atop an extinct volcano (Castle Rock). The cannon batteries and gunports in this area are part of the Argyle Battery and Half Moon Battery. This is also home to the famous One O’Clock Gun, which has been fired daily (except Sundays) at 1:00 pm since 1861 to help ships in the Firth of Forth set their clocks.

•  The Dog Cemetery dates to the 1840s and holds about 20 small headstones for officers’ pets and regimental mascots. The first burial was Fido in 1847; the dogs often accompanied soldiers on global campaigns. It’s viewable only from above to protect the site.

•  The Scott Monument is a 61-meter (200 ft) Gothic tower dedicated to Sir Walter Scott, the author of Ivanhoe and many other classics. It’s the second-largest monument to a writer in the world and features 68 statues of characters from his novels. Scott is depicted at the base with his beloved deerhound, Maida.

•  Calton Hill is another volcanic outcrop and part of Edinburgh’s UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its collection of monuments gives it a dramatic, almost Athenian feel—earning the city its nickname “Athens of the North.”

•  The Nelson Monument looks like an upturned telescope and honors Admiral Lord Nelson’s victory at the Battle of Trafalgar (1805). It once had a time ball that dropped at 1 pm to help ships synchronize clocks.

•  The Dugald Stewart Monument is an elegant circular temple honoring the Scottish Enlightenment philosopher. Its design by William Henry Playfair perfectly frames the city views and is one of the most photographed spots on the hill.

•  The Scottish National Monument was meant to be a full replica of the Parthenon in Athens to honor Scottish soldiers who died in the Napoleonic Wars. Funds ran out, leaving the dramatic unfinished “ruin” you see today—often called “Scotland’s Disgrace” or “Edinburgh’s Folly.

Final Thoughts from Our First Day in Scotland

Edinburgh felt alive, historic, and full of character. The blend of medieval streets, grand architecture, and energetic city buzz made us fall in love with Scotland almost instantly. We couldn’t wait to explore more of the capital and beyond in the coming days.

Next Up:

Day trips from Edinburgh including The Kelpies (the giant horse sculptures), the Falkirk Wheel, and the Wallace Monument — plus more evening exploring in the city. NEXT…

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