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Farewell Scotland & Hadrian’s Wall: Heading Back to England (Days 16–17)

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Introduction

After an incredible time in the Scottish Highlands, it was time to start heading south. Days 16 and 17 marked our farewell to Scotland and a return to England, with some powerful historic stops along the way. This stretch of the journey offers a perfect mix of scenic coastal views, world-class Roman ruins, and the charming seaside atmosphere of Whitby—ideal for anyone planning a Scotland-to-England road trip or exploring Hadrian’s Wall highlights.

Day 16: Leaving Scotland

This was a travel day as we drove south from Inverness. We didn’t have any major planned stops—no castles, abbeys or hikes—but we did pull over for a foggy photo at Sea View Point near Eyemouth. The mist over the water created a moody, atmospheric goodbye to Scotland. It felt bittersweet—we had seen so much, yet there was clearly still more to explore in the future.

Day 17: Hadrian’s Wall & Arrival in Whitby

Today we were on our way to Whitby, England. Along the way we stopped off at Chesters Roman Fort & Museum and Hadrian’s Wall, two amazingly beautiful sites chock full of ancient ruins, artifacts, and history. It’s hard to fathom life as it was nearly 2000 years ago. I personally have loved the architecture of the castles, churches, and abbeys—they make today’s buildings look like ugly, boring boxes in comparison.

Whitby is a cute little seaside town in North Yorkshire and is quite different from other places we’ve stayed. After arriving at our Airbnb we strolled downtown and along the docks to the Magpie Cafe, where we enjoyed a nice seafood dinner. We tried the crab bisque, fish pie topped with mashed potatoes and cheese, and a grilled fish medley—all delicious! We were so full and tired afterwards that we walked back to our apartment and were in bed before 10pm.

Helpful Tips for This Route

•  The English Heritage Pass works well for Hadrian’s Wall sites including Chesters Roman Fort & Museum—membership or a multi-day pass can pay for itself quickly if you’re visiting several properties.

•  Whitby is a popular town—book your accommodation in advance, especially in the warmer months or around peak events.

•  The seafood at Magpie Cafe is excellent, but expect a wait if you go during peak hours. Booking ahead is wise for the restaurant (there’s also a takeaway option next door); portions are generous.

•  Allow plenty of driving time from the Inverness area south—routes via the A1 or more scenic options can take 6–8+ hours depending on stops and traffic. Fuel up and check weather, as coastal fog and northern English weather can change quickly.

•  At Chesters, don’t miss the bath house and the museum; wear sturdy shoes as paths can be uneven. Parking is available (often refundable with entry). Combine with a short walk along nearby stretches of Hadrian’s Wall for the best experience.

•  Near Eyemouth / Sea View Point, keep an eye out for seals and consider a brief detour to the harbour or coastal path if time allows—it’s a quieter alternative to busier Borders spots.

•  Practical note: English Heritage sites often offer online booking discounts, and checking opening times in advance is essential as hours vary by season.

Fun Facts

Around Eyemouth / Sea View Point: The Berwickshire coast has a dramatic history. In October 1881, the Eyemouth Fishing Disaster claimed 129 local lives in a sudden storm (out of 189 total deaths along the coast), leaving many widows and children. Today you’ll find moving “Widows and Bairns” memorial sculptures along the shoreline. The area is also known for seals, seabirds, and earlier smuggling lore.

Hadrian’s Wall & Chesters Roman Fort: Hadrian’s Wall stretches about 73 miles (80 Roman miles) across northern England and was begun in AD 122 on the orders of Emperor Hadrian. It took roughly six years to build and once stood around 15 feet (4.5 m) high in places. Chesters Roman Fort (Roman name Cilurnum) was a cavalry fort built around AD 124 to house about 500 soldiers and their horses. It later became home to the Second Asturians, a unit from northern Spain. One of the standout features is the exceptionally well-preserved bath house beside the River North Tyne—among the best Roman military baths in Britain. When excavated in the 1880s, workers discovered the remains of 33 human skeletons (plus two horses and a dog) in or near the baths; the exact story behind them remains a mystery. The on-site Clayton Museum holds one of the finest collections of inscriptions and sculptures from the Wall.

Whitby & Magpie Cafe: Whitby is a classic North Yorkshire seaside town with a strong fishing heritage and a lively harbour atmosphere. The Magpie Café occupies an 18th-century merchant’s house (built around 1750) with historic links to the Scoresby whaling family and later used as a pilotage office. It has been a café/restaurant since the late 1930s and is renowned for fresh local seafood and classic fish and chips (often fried in traditional beef dripping).

Final Thoughts

These two days felt like a gentle transition. Leaving Scotland was a little sad, but Hadrian’s Wall and the cozy charm of Whitby gave us plenty to look forward to in the final stretch of our trip. The mix of Roman history and seaside atmosphere was the perfect bridge between Scotland and our last days in England. Whether you’re chasing ancient ruins, coastal views, or simply great seafood, this route delivers memorable moments.​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​

Next Up:

Our final full touring day in England, including the atmospheric Whitby Abbey and the Rudston Monolith (featured on Ancient Aliens).

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English Heritage Castles & Southeast Coast Adventure: Dover, Deal & More (Day 4)

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A Peaceful Morning Surprise

As I was folding laundry in the early hours of the morning, whilst everyone else was still getting their beauty sleep, I caught a glimpse of two small deer outside our front window. They scampered in and out so quickly I was lucky to get a shot! (Check it out below.)

Heading to the Southeast Coast

With our English Heritage Pass ready to go, we drove toward the southeast coast — only about 20 miles from France at its closest point. The area feels steeped in history, and we were excited to pack in as many sites as possible.

Our Historic Sites

Here’s where the day took us: Click on the links to get the full history cited on the English Heritage site.

•  Knights Templar Church Ruins — A hauntingly peaceful start to our day. These atmospheric roofless stone walls, dating from the late 12th century, stand quietly in an open field. Believed to have served as both a chapel and a lookout point for the mysterious Knights Templar, the ruins have an almost magical, otherworldly feel — perfect for imagining medieval knights and centuries of silent history.

•  Dover Castle — The star of the day! Perched dramatically on the white cliffs overlooking the Channel, this mighty fortress has guarded England for over 2,000 years.

We explored the towering keep, the fascinating secret tunnels used during the Dunkirk evacuation, and the remarkable 2,000-year-old Roman lighthouse — one of the oldest standing buildings in Britain. Absolutely breathtaking views and history at every turn.

•  Walmer Castle — A beautiful contrast to the more military forts, Walmer Castle was originally built as one of Henry VIII’s coastal defences but later became the official residence of the Lord Warden of the Cinque Ports.

What we loved most were its stunning gardens — peaceful, colourful, and perfectly manicured. From formal beds and a working kitchen garden to the famous Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother’s Garden with its rose-filled parterres, the grounds feel like a tranquil English country estate. After a full day of exploring stone ruins and tunnels, these lush gardens were the perfect peaceful finale.

•  Deal Castle — Henry VIII’s distinctive circular artillery fort — we loved exploring “The Rounds” — the atmospheric, narrow tunnels built within the thickness of the outer walls. Walking round and round in this dim, circular passage really brought the castle’s defensive purpose to life as you imagine soldiers moving quickly to any threat.

•  Richborough Roman Fort & Amphitheater — One of Britain’s most important Roman sites — and the very spot where the Romans first landed in AD 43 during Emperor Claudius’s massive invasion.

We stood on the same ground where nearly 40,000 Roman soldiers came ashore nearly 2,000 years ago. The huge defensive walls, ditches, and the remains of the amphitheatre still visible in the landscape made history feel incredibly alive. A powerful and humbling place.

•  St. Augustine’s Cross — A peaceful and powerful finale to our history-filled day. This tall stone cross marks the spot where St. Augustine is believed to have landed in 597 AD, bringing Christianity to England.

Standing beside it, we reflected on how one mission changed the course of British history forever. Simple, moving, and deeply meaningful.

By the end of the day we’d walked nearly 5 miles. We were tired but completely thrilled with everything we’d seen.

Evening Wind-Down

We headed back to Ide Hill and stopped once again at The King’s Head — this time for proper fish & chips. (The beef stroganoff from our first night there had been so good that we were excited to try another classic!) Back at our cozy Airbnb, we opened wine, put on some music, and recapped the day’s adventures. It was the perfect way to wrap up our wonderful Kent chapter.

Fun Facts from Day 4

•  The Knights Templar Church ruins date to the late 12th century and may have served as both a chapel and a lookout point for the mysterious Knights Templar.

•  Dover Castle has been a defensive stronghold for over 2,000 years and includes one of the oldest standing buildings in Britain — a Roman lighthouse from the 2nd century AD.

•  Walmer Castle later became the official residence of the Lord Warden of the Cinque Ports. The Duke of Wellington died here in 1852, and his modest room is still preserved with his original armchair and boots.

•  Deal Castle’s unique circular “Tudor rose” design with six bastions was part of Henry VIII’s coastal defense system built in 1539–1540.

•  Richborough Roman Fort is believed to be the landing site of Emperor Claudius’s massive invasion fleet (around 40,000 soldiers) in AD 43.

•  St. Augustine’s Cross commemorates the 597 AD landing of St. Augustine, whose mission helped convert the Anglo-Saxons and shape England’s Christian history.

Final Thoughts from Day 4

This day perfectly captured the incredible variety of English history — from ancient Romans and medieval knights to Tudor kings and early Christian roots — all in one corner of the country. Sharing it with Jerry, Dave, and Karen made it even more memorable. A wonderful finale to our peaceful time in Kent.

Next Up:

We leave Kent and head toward Portsmouth to see the historic HMS Victory, followed by a magical sunrise at Stonehenge! NEXT…

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Arrival in Kent: Jet Lag, London Eye & First Impressions of England (Days 1-3)

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Introduction

In late April 2024, my husband Jerry and I, along with our dear friends Dave and Karen, set off on a 25-day adventure through England, Scotland, and Ireland. After months of planning (and more than a few FaceTime chats), we were excited to finally trade our everyday routines for castles, winding countryside lanes, and plenty of shared discoveries.

Jerry and I flew from Denver, while Dave and Karen flew in from Los Angeles. We met up at Heathrow Airport, bleary-eyed but buzzing with excitement. After a long 9-hour flight and wrestling with the 7-hour time difference, we collected our rental car and hit the road.

The rental car pickup provided our first “we’re not in Colorado anymore” moment. As we merged onto the roadway, we suddenly weren’t sure if the speed limit signs were in miles per hour or kilometers per hour. (The UK uses the metric system, right?!) We spent the first few minutes doing mental math and second-guessing every sign until we realized, with a mix of relief and laughter, that the roads in Britain still use good old miles. Classic rookie travelers — we were already off to a memorable start!

Within hours, England began working its magic on us. The countryside unfolded like a storybook, and we quickly realized this trip was going to be even better than we had imagined.

Day 1: Touchdown & The Drive to Ide Hill

After hitting the road, our first practical stop was a quick detour to Costco for supplies. Jet-lagged but determined, we stocked up on snacks, breakfast essentials, and a few familiar comforts (wine) to ease us into the trip.

Jerry and Dave took on all the driving duties for the entire 25 days, while Karen and I helped handle navigation. We’d all agreed beforehand that we would constantly remind the driver to “stay left,” which helped keep us on the correct (well… the wrong) side of the road while smoothly (mostly) navigating the endless roundabouts. It was definitely an adjustment at first!

The drive south to our charming Airbnb in Ide Hill, Kent, was both beautiful and a little nerve-wracking. Those narrow country lanes lined with tall hedgerows were incredibly picturesque, and we soaked in our first real views of the classic English countryside. We were all relieved and excited when we finally pulled up to our cozy cottage-style home. It was perfect for the four of us, with lovely views from every window.

That evening we went to The King’s Head pub for dinner. We all tried the beef stroganoff, which was rich and comforting after our long travel day. Our server, Sophie, was wonderfully friendly and gave us great tips for catching the train into London the next day. Exhausted but happy, we were all tucked into bed by 8pm.

Day 2: Our First London Day Trip

Jet lag hit us hard — Jerry and I woke up at 3am! After making coffee, we took a lovely walk through a nearby forest as the sun came up. Once everyone was ready, we drove to the train station in Sevenoaks and caught a train into London.

We had a mostly sunny day, which was a nice surprise. We started with the Tower of London and walked across Tower Bridge, where the glass floor was both exciting and a little scary. We hopped on a classic red double-decker bus, then stopped at Brewdog Brewery for a refreshing mango sour while waiting for our next activity.

We bought our London Eye tickets online the same day after checking the weather forecast. We lucked out with beautiful clear skies, and the 360° views from the top were spectacular. We could clearly see the Shard, Big Ben, the Walkie Talkie building, and so much of London’s skyline.

We ended the day walking through the Graffiti Tunnel before taking the train back to Ide Hill. A simple “wine dinner” (charcuterie, cheeses, and good wine) was the perfect way to end the day.

Day 3: More London Exploring

We woke to classic English fog and a very plump pheasant outside our window — such a quintessential English moment! After coffee, we headed back into London.

We walked past Big Ben, Westminster Abbey, through St. James’s Park, and over to Buckingham Palace. We stopped for a drink at the Golden Lion pub before continuing to Piccadilly Circus, where we enjoyed traditional fish & chips at Mr. Fogg’s Tavern. We finished at Trafalgar Square before returning to Kent.

That evening we had sourdough crust pizza at The Pheasant Plucker along with more wine and music. These relaxed evenings with our friends quickly became some of my favorite memories.

Helpful Tips from Our First Days

•  English Heritage Pass: This was one of our smartest purchases. With so many castles and historic sites on our itinerary, it provided free entry to many of them and saved us a nice chunk of money throughout the trip.

•  Trains from smaller towns: Trains from places like Sevenoaks into London were wonderfully easy and efficient—perfect for quick city escapes without the stress of driving.

•  London Eye tickets: We bought ours online the same day after checking the weather forecast. We were lucky with mostly sunny skies during our visit, which made the views absolutely spectacular.

Fun Facts from Our First Days in Kent & London

•  Those iconic tall hedgerows lining the narrow country lanes aren’t just pretty — many are hundreds of years old (some over 800 years!) and were originally planted as living fences to keep livestock in and mark property boundaries. They’re so valuable that locals actually warned us: in a scrape on those tiny roads, you’d almost rather hit another car than plow through one of these protected “living walls”!

•  Ide Hill sits on one of the highest points in Kent, giving our cozy Airbnb those stunning panoramic views over the Weald below. The village name dates all the way back to 1250, originally recorded as “Edythehelle” — basically “Edith’s Hill.” It’s in an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, so those storybook scenes from every window were the real deal.

•  The King’s Head pub in Bessels Green has that welcoming village-pub charm for a reason — many pubs with this name trace their roots back to the reign of Henry VIII. Our friendly server Sophie felt like a perfect introduction to British hospitality.

•  The London Eye isn’t technically a Ferris wheel. It’s the world’s tallest cantilevered observation wheel (supported on only one side). It was originally built as a temporary attraction for the millennium celebrations in 2000, but it proved so popular that they decided to keep it permanently. Bonus: there’s no capsule #13 because of superstition!

Final Thoughts

Our first three days nailed the perfect travel rhythm right from the start. We bounced between proper London sightseeing (the kind that makes your feet ache in the best way) and quiet countryside evenings, and somehow it all felt just right. Jet lag? Handled. Roundabouts? Survived. By the end of those early days, the four of us — Jerry, Dave, Karen, and me — were already laughing about our rookie moments and completely hooked on the adventure ahead.

Up Next:

Our full-day English Heritage adventure visiting multiple castles and historic sites along England’s southeast coast, including the impressive Dover Castle! NEXT…

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3 Weeks in England, Scotland & Ireland: Our 2024 Vacation Recap (April 28-May23)

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Introduction

In late April and May of 2024, my husband Jerry and I, along with our dear friends Dave and Karen, spent 25 wonderful days traveling through England, Scotland, and Ireland. It was a classic multi-country vacation filled with history, stunning landscapes, great food, and plenty of laughs.

Trip Overview

Route: Kent → Southern & Central England → Scotland (Edinburgh & Highlands) → Ireland (Bray & Dublin area)

Travel Style: Mostly rental cars, with trains for city day trips and one short flight between England and Ireland.

We stayed in AirBnBs and cottages, cooked many meals together, and enjoyed the freedom of exploring at our own pace.

Our Route at a Glance

•  Days 1–4: Kent countryside base + London day trips

•  Days 5–9: Southern & Central England → Liverpool → Chester → drive into Scotland

•  Days 10–15: Edinburgh + Scottish Highlands & Isle of Skye

•  Days 16–19: Farewell to Scotland → Hadrian’s Wall → Whitby & Yorkshire Coast

•  Days 20–25: Ireland (Bray base + Dublin + Glendalough & Wicklow Mountains)

Top Highlights

•  Sunrise inside the Stonehenge inner circle

•  Dramatic clifftop Dunnottar Castle

•  The challenging but rewarding Old Man of Storr hike on Skye

•  Foggy, atmospheric Whitby Abbey (Dracula vibes)

•  Celebrating our 36th anniversary in Dublin with Guinness and city views

•  Newgrange, Glendalough, and the scenic Sally Gap drive

What We Learned & Tips

•  Traveling with close friends enhanced the experience — shared laughs, driving, and costs made everything better.

•  The English Heritage Pass (England) and Historic Scotland Explorer Pass were excellent investments.

•  Bring excellent waterproof shoes — even in late April/early May, the ground can be wet at many outdoor sites.

•  Several sites we visited (including Rudston Monolith) have appeared on the History Channel’s Ancient Aliens, which added extra fun for us.

The Full Series

I’m sharing our complete trip in individual detailed posts. Here’s the lineup (new posts added weekly):

I’ll update the links as each post goes live.

Final Thoughts

This trip reminded us why we love traveling — the shared experiences, the unexpected moments, and the beauty of seeing the world with people you love. England, Scotland, and Ireland each have their own special charm, and we’re already talking about going back to see more of Ireland.
Would we do it again? Absolutely.

Have you traveled with friends or celebrated a big anniversary on a trip?

I’d love to hear your experiences or recommendations in the comments!

Planning Your Own UK & Ireland Adventure

If this three-week journey through England, Scotland, and Ireland has inspired you to plan a similar trip, GoWithGuide is an excellent way to make it smooth and memorable. Their local expert guides can create private, customizable tours tailored to your interests — whether you’re exploring historic cities in England, the Highlands of Scotland, or the stunning landscapes and culture of Ireland.

For England & Scotland (UK):
Book Private Tours in England & Scotland with GoWithGuide →

For Ireland:
Book Private Tours in Ireland with GoWithGuide →

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