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Banff, Bow Fiddle Rock & Outlander Sites: Road to Inverness (Day 13)

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Introduction

Day 13 was another beautiful road trip day along Scotland’s northeast coast as we made our way toward Inverness. We stayed in a nice little flat in Banff the night before, right by the North Sea, which gave us a peaceful start to the day.

Day 13: Coastal Drives & Outlander Connections

Jerry and I took a quick morning stroll to the beach while Dave and Karen got ready to hit the road. The weather was unusually warm at 75 degrees — we felt very lucky!

Our first stop was Bow Fiddle Rock, a striking natural sea arch. The warm sunshine and waves made it a highlight of the morning. From there we continued to Elgin Cathedral, another impressive ruined cathedral with interesting artifacts and architecture. It has more surviving medieval memorials and effigies than any other Scottish cathedral.

For all the fans of the show Outlander, we made sure to stop at Clava Cairns. This site, with its standing stones surrounded by tall trees and farmland, was captivating and atmospheric — it’s widely believed to have inspired Diana Gabaldon’s Craigh na Dun. The nearby Culloden Viaduct (pictured with yellow flowers foreground) made the whole area even more scenic.

We also made a quick stop at Culloden Battlefield. While it was quite commercialized and busy with tourists (a bit of a contrast to the quieter sites), it was still a thought-provoking place to visit.

We finally arrived at our cottage just south of Inverness in the late afternoon. After a long day we made lettuce-wrapped tacos for dinner, then headed into Inverness for a quick look around and to catch the sunset.

Helpful Tips for This Route

• Bow Fiddle Rock is worth the stop — especially on a sunny day.

• Clava Cairns is free and relatively quiet compared to other popular sites.

• Culloden Battlefield can get crowded, so early or late in the day is better if possible. **Note that it is managed by the National Trust for Scotland (NTS), so an NTS membership gives you free entry here (while the Historic Scotland Explorer Pass covers most of the other sites on this day).

• The Historic Scotland Explorer Pass is very useful for historic site entries.

Fun Facts

•  Bow Fiddle Rock: This dramatic sea arch gets its name because it perfectly resembles the tip of a violin or fiddle bow. Formed by the relentless force of the North Sea waves, it stands about 50 feet tall and is a favorite for photographers on the Moray Coast.

•  Elgin Cathedral (known as the “Lantern of the North”): Founded in 1224, this was once one of Scotland’s most magnificent cathedrals. It features a well-preserved octagonal chapter house and intricate medieval carvings.

•  Clava Cairns: These Bronze Age burial cairns are around 4,000 years old, with passage graves aligned to the winter solstice. The standing stones and woodland setting inspired the time-travel site in Outlander.

•  Culloden Viaduct: The longest masonry railway viaduct in Scotland (about 1,800 feet long with 29 arches), opened in 1898 and still in use today — a stunning landmark near Clava Cairns.

•  Culloden Battlefield: Site of the last pitched battle fought on British soil in 1746. The Jacobite defeat here in under an hour changed the course of Highland history.

•  Banff: A historic royal burgh with roots in the 12th century, once a busy North Sea trading port famous for exporting salmon to Europe.

Final Thoughts from Day 13

This day had a great mix of natural beauty, historic ruins, and Outlander nostalgia. Bow Fiddle Rock and Clava Cairns were especially memorable. We were starting to feel the pull of the Highlands and were excited to explore more around Inverness in the coming days.​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​

Next Up:

A more relaxed day around Loch Ness, including Urquhart Castle and the Touchstone Maze, followed by our big adventure on the Isle of Skye. COMING SOON…

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Northeast Scotland Coast Drive: Arbroath Abbey, Dunnottar Castle & Stone Circles (Day 12)

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Introduction

On Day 12 we left Edinburgh and began our drive north and west toward Inverness. This was one of our favorite road trip days in Scotland, filled with dramatic coastal views and historic sites.

Day 12: Coastal Scotland Adventure

We started the day heading up the eastern coast. Our first stop was Arbroath Abbey, a towering medieval ruin. The red sandstone walls standing against the sky were quite striking.

Next, we visited Dunnottar Castle — hands down one of the most dramatic locations of the entire trip. The castle sits 160 feet up on cliffs overlooking the North Sea with crystal-clear water below. The views were breathtaking, and it’s easy to see why it has been used in so many films and photos. We spent a long time walking around and soaking in the scenery.

After a full morning of exploring, we stopped for an early dinner at The Shepherds Rest, enjoying burgers and fish & chips. We then made our way to East Aquhorthies Stone Circle. We were the only people there, which made it feel extra magical. The peaceful setting in the open countryside was a lovely contrast to some of the busier sites.

Helpful Tips for the Northeast Coast Drive

•  Dunnottar Castle is a must-visit — arrive with plenty of time to explore and take photos, as the steep path and cliffs require good footwear and caution, especially with wind or rain.

•  Check the weather before heading out, as coastal winds can be strong and change quickly.

•  The English Heritage Pass does not cover Scottish sites, so you’ll need the Historic Scotland Explorer Pass or pay individual entry fees (Dunnottar and Arbroath have reasonable separate tickets).

•  Bring layers — it can be quite windy along the coast, even on sunny days.

•  For stone circles like East Aquhorthies, wear sturdy shoes for uneven grassy terrain and consider a small donation if there’s an honesty box for road maintenance.

•  Plan your fuel and snacks, as services can be sparse between sites; pack water and binoculars for wildlife spotting along the cliffs.

Fun Facts

Banff (our stop for the night): This historic royal burgh on the northern coast dates back to at least the 12th century and was a busy trading port exporting salmon to Europe. Its name likely ties to Gaelic roots linked to a “holy woman,” reflected in the town’s coat of arms featuring the Virgin Mary. The area has deep maritime history, including one of the UK’s largest surviving ice houses used for salmon storage.

Final Thoughts

This day reminded us why Scotland’s northeast coast is so special. The combination of dramatic clifftop castles and quiet, ancient stone circles created a perfect balance. We arrived at our little flat in Banff (on the northern coast) tired but very happy with the day. It was one of those perfect road-trip days where history, scenery, and solitude all came together beautifully.​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​

Next Up:

Our final day on the northeast coast before arriving in Inverness, including Bow Fiddle Rock, Elgin Cathedral, Clava Cairns, and Culloden Battlefield. NEXT…

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The Kelpies, Falkirk Wheel & Wallace Monument: Day Trips from Edinburgh (Day 11)

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Day 11: Edinburgh Day Trip to The Kelpies, Falkirk Wheel & Wallace Monument

Introduction

On Day 11 we decided to explore some of the unique attractions north of Edinburgh. This day gave us a nice mix of modern wonders and Scottish history — very different from the ancient castles and stone circles we’d seen earlier.

Day 11: Our Day Trip Adventures

We started by driving north to see The Kelpies — the largest equine sculptures in the world. These two giant horse heads stand 100 feet tall and weigh 300 tons each. You don’t fully appreciate their size until you’re standing right next to them. It’s an impressive installation and definitely a must-see in the area.

From there we made a quick stop at The Falkirk Wheel — the world’s only rotating boat lift. It’s a fascinating piece of modern engineering. Watching it rotate to move boats between different canal levels was really cool.

Next, we visited the Wallace National Monument, built in honor of Sir William Wallace (yes, the Braveheart one). We climbed the monument for great views, and it definitely made us want to watch the movie again!

We returned to our apartment in Edinburgh later in the day, dropped off the car, and walked into town for a cold beer in a nice plaza. It was a beautiful evening, and we enjoyed some relaxed people-watching. For dinner we made omelets using leftover burger ingredients and enjoyed keto candied pecans for dessert.

Tips for These Attractions

•  The Kelpies are free to visit and easy to reach from Edinburgh.

•  Check the Falkirk Wheel schedule if you want to see it in action.

•  Wear comfortable shoes if you plan to climb the Wallace Monument. Book tickets online 
in advance to secure your entry time slot.

•  Having a car makes this day much easier, though buses are also possible.

Fun Facts

•  The Kelpies: These majestic sculptures are named after two real Clydesdale horses — Duke (the one looking down) and Baron — that inspired sculptor Andy Scott. They were built on-site in just 90 days using over 900 stainless steel “scales” per head. The mythical kelpie from Scottish folklore is a shape-shifting water spirit that could take the form of a horse and possessed the strength of at least 10 horses — a perfect symbol for the heavy horses that once powered Scotland’s canals and industries.

•  The Falkirk Wheel: This engineering marvel uses roughly the same energy as boiling eight kettles for each full rotation (about 1.5 kWh) and can lift boats 35 meters in just minutes. Each gondola holds around 500,000 liters of water — equivalent to an Olympic swimming pool! It was opened by Queen Elizabeth II in 2002 as part of efforts to reconnect Scotland’s historic canals. The design draws inspiration from a Celtic axe, a ship’s propeller, and even the ribcage of a whale.

•  Wallace National Monument: The tower stands 220 feet (67 meters) tall and contains 246 spiral steps to reach the top. Inside you’ll find William Wallace’s legendary sword (over 5 feet long and weighing more than 5 pounds), along with the Hall of Heroes featuring busts of famous Scots like Robert the Bruce, Mary Slessor, and others. The monument was funded entirely by public donations and took eight years to build, opening in 1869 — exactly 572 years after Wallace’s victory at the Battle of Stirling Bridge. 

Final Thoughts

This day was a fun change of pace. The Kelpies and Falkirk Wheel showed us Scotland’s more modern side, while the Wallace Monument connected us back to the country’s historic heroes. It was another solid day of variety on our trip.

Next Up:

Our northeast Scotland coastal drive toward Inverness, including dramatic castles like Dunnottar and peaceful stone circles. NEXT…

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First Full Day in Edinburgh: Royal Mile, Castle & Scottish Impressions (Day 10)

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We woke up on Day 10 to a view of Arthur’s Seat from our apartment window. After days of driving and exploring remote ruins, it felt wonderfully refreshing to be based in a vibrant city again. Scotland was already winning us over.

We began the morning with a gentle uphill walk along the Royal Mile to Edinburgh Castle for our 9:30am tour. Along the way, we passed the charming little 16th-century Queen Mary’s Bathhouse, a picturesque turreted building just outside the Palace of Holyroodhouse.

The castle itself felt more like a living museum than the ancient ruins we’d seen earlier in the trip, but its position high above the city delivered spectacular views. The cannon gunports offered perfect “framed” shots of the rooftops and spires below, and we were charmed by the historic Dog Cemetery—dating back to 1837—with its tiny headstones honoring soldiers’ and officers’ loyal dogs (and a few other pets).

After leaving the castle, we wandered down Cockburn Street and enjoyed a relaxed lunch of wine and charcuterie at a cozy spot. Feeling revived, we made one of the best decisions of the trip: hopping on a double-decker hop-on hop-off bus tour. It gave us an excellent overview of the city’s layout and helped us decide where to spend more time. After walking more than six miles already, the ride was a very welcome rest for our feet.

The bus route took us past several standout landmarks, including the towering Scott Monument and Calton Hill. We hopped off to explore the hill’s impressive monuments: the Nelson Monument, the Dugald Stewart Monument, and the unfinished Scottish National Monument.

We returned to our apartment in the late afternoon and cooked a simple but satisfying dinner—bunless burgers topped with cheddar, bacon, and eggs. Having a kitchen during this trip has been an absolute blessing after long days of sightseeing.

Practical Tips for Edinburgh

• Book Edinburgh Castle tickets in advance, especially for morning slots—they sell out quickly. (This destination is included with the Historic Scotland Explorer Pass.)

• Take a hop-on hop-off bus tour on your first day. It’s one of the smartest ways to get oriented.

• The Royal Mile has some steep sections—comfortable walking shoes are essential.

• Staying somewhere with a kitchen helps you balance restaurant meals, save money, and recharge after busy days.

Fun Facts

•  Arthur’s Seat is an extinct volcano that last erupted around 350 million years ago. At 251 meters (823 feet) tall, it offers some of the best views over Edinburgh. In 1836, boys discovered 17 mysterious miniature coffins containing tiny wooden figures in a cave on its slopes—their purpose is still unknown.

•  The Royal Mile is actually 1.07 miles long and follows the ridge of an ancient volcano, which explains its steep sections.

•  Queen Mary’s Bath House (16th century) is more likely a garden pavilion or summer house than an actual bathhouse. The story of Mary, Queen of Scots bathing in wine or goat’s milk here is a charming legend with no historical proof.

•  Edinburgh Castle has been besieged at least 26 times, making it one of the most attacked places in Britain. It sits atop an extinct volcano (Castle Rock). The cannon batteries and gunports in this area are part of the Argyle Battery and Half Moon Battery. This is also home to the famous One O’Clock Gun, which has been fired daily (except Sundays) at 1:00 pm since 1861 to help ships in the Firth of Forth set their clocks.

•  The Dog Cemetery dates to the 1840s and holds about 20 small headstones for officers’ pets and regimental mascots. The first burial was Fido in 1847; the dogs often accompanied soldiers on global campaigns. It’s viewable only from above to protect the site.

•  The Scott Monument is a 61-meter (200 ft) Gothic tower dedicated to Sir Walter Scott, the author of Ivanhoe and many other classics. It’s the second-largest monument to a writer in the world and features 68 statues of characters from his novels. Scott is depicted at the base with his beloved deerhound, Maida.

•  Calton Hill is another volcanic outcrop and part of Edinburgh’s UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its collection of monuments gives it a dramatic, almost Athenian feel—earning the city its nickname “Athens of the North.”

•  The Nelson Monument looks like an upturned telescope and honors Admiral Lord Nelson’s victory at the Battle of Trafalgar (1805). It once had a time ball that dropped at 1 pm to help ships synchronize clocks.

•  The Dugald Stewart Monument is an elegant circular temple honoring the Scottish Enlightenment philosopher. Its design by William Henry Playfair perfectly frames the city views and is one of the most photographed spots on the hill.

•  The Scottish National Monument was meant to be a full replica of the Parthenon in Athens to honor Scottish soldiers who died in the Napoleonic Wars. Funds ran out, leaving the dramatic unfinished “ruin” you see today—often called “Scotland’s Disgrace” or “Edinburgh’s Folly.

Final Thoughts from Our First Day in Scotland

Edinburgh felt alive, historic, and full of character. The blend of medieval streets, grand architecture, and energetic city buzz made us fall in love with Scotland almost instantly. We couldn’t wait to explore more of the capital and beyond in the coming days.

Next Up:

Day trips from Edinburgh including The Kelpies (the giant horse sculptures), the Falkirk Wheel, and the Wallace Monument — plus more evening exploring in the city. NEXT…

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Liverpool, Chester Walls & Driving into Scotland (Days 7–9)

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Introduction

After our Stonehenge and Bath adventures, we continued heading north. Days 7 through 9 were a nice mix of a fun music detour, deep history in Chester, and our official crossing into Scotland.

Day 7: Liverpool Stop & Arrival in Chester

We left Bristol with some extra time, so we decided to make a detour to Liverpool to visit The Cavern Club — the famous underground venue where The Beatles got their start. The club is small, dark, and full of history. We stayed for a while, had a beer, and listened to a local musician. It was a fun, lighter stop that broke up all the historic sites we’d been visiting.

From Liverpool, we continued on to Chester and checked into our Airbnb right in the heart of the city. Our accommodations were wonderful—definitely a step up from the last two places. It was a good reminder that you can’t always trust the pictures on the Airbnb site; it’s worth reading the reviews carefully and looking very closely at the photos before booking.

After settling in, we took a short evening walk to get our first glimpse of the famous city walls.​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​

Day 8: Exploring Chester

The next day we fully explored Chester. We walked the entire Chester City Walls — the oldest, longest, and most complete Roman walls in Britain (nearly 2,000 years old and 1.8 miles long). The views from the top over the city were beautiful and really brought the history to life.

We also wandered through the Roman Gardens, visited the amphitheater remains, and explored Chester Cathedral. We ended up spending quite a bit of time there, slowly wandering through the nave and side chapels while marveling over the incredibly detailed carvings — the stonework was so intricate, with everything from delicate foliage to biblical scenes and grotesque gargoyles. The cathedral’s towering ceilings, intricate carvings, and stunning stained glass windows were truly impressive. We finished the afternoon with some people-watching and a relaxing glass of wine on a sunny patio before heading back to our Airbnb.

Day 9: Driving from Chester into Scotland

On Day 9 we left Chester around 9am for the 4.5-hour drive to Edinburgh. We made several enjoyable stops along the way:

•  Brougham Castle – A 13th-century ruin where we climbed the steep spiral staircase for great views.

•  Mayburgh Henge – A stone circle where Jerry and Dave had a spontaneous moment — they took off their shirts and “frolicked” to the remaining stone while Karen and I laughed from the bank. It was one of the funniest moments of the trip!

•  Arthur’s Round Table and Penrith Castle – Quick stops that added to the scenic drive.

The landscape became more dramatic as we crossed into Scotland. It felt like a real milestone in our journey.

Tips for These Days

•  The Cavern Club is worth a stop if you have any interest in The Beatles.

•  Chester is very walkable — plan at least half a day for the walls and cathedral.

•  The drive from Chester to Edinburgh is pleasant with good stops. Build in extra time if you enjoy ruins and stone circles.

Fun Facts About Our Stops

Here are some interesting tidbits about the places we visited — they added even more appreciation for the history along the way!

•  The Cavern Club, Liverpool: This legendary underground venue opened in 1957 as a jazz club but became the epicenter of the British rock scene. The Beatles performed here an incredible 292 times between 1961 and 1963. It’s small, sweaty, and atmospheric — exactly as it was in the early days, with the original stage still in use.

•  Chester City Walls: These are Britain’s most complete circuit of ancient city walls and the only ones in the country that still form a full, unbroken loop around the city. In the 18th century, they stopped being used for defense and were turned into a fashionable public walkway — complete with steps added for easier strolling and even a few quirky traditions like the “Wishing Steps,” where locals say if you can run up and down without taking a breath, your wish will come true!

•  Brougham Castle: Built in the early 13th century by Robert de Vieuxpont on the site of a Roman fort (Brocavum). It was later restored in the 17th century by the formidable Lady Anne Clifford, who loved it so much that she died there. Locals once believed a giant named Turquin lived in the ruins — a legend possibly linked to Arthurian tales of Sir Lancelot!

•  Mayburgh Henge: This massive Neolithic henge (about 4,500 years old) was built using an estimated 20,000 tons of river cobbles from the nearby River Eamont — no ditch, just an enormous stone bank up to 15 feet high. Only one giant standing stone remains in the center (there were once several). It’s one of the most impressive and least-visited prehistoric monuments in Britain.

•  Arthur’s Round Table: Despite the name, this Neolithic henge (around 2000 BC) has nothing to do with King Arthur — the association came centuries later. It’s a large circular earthwork with banks and ditches, located just 400 meters from Mayburgh Henge. In the 19th century, a local pub owner even turned part of it into a tea garden!

•  Penrith Castle: Constructed in the late 14th century in distinctive red sandstone to defend against Scottish raids. It later became a residence for Richard, Duke of Gloucester (the future King Richard III). The ruins sit right in the middle of a peaceful park today, making for a lovely quick stop.

These little details made the drive feel like a journey through thousands of years of history in just one day!

Final Thoughts

These three days offered a great balance — music nostalgia in Liverpool, rich history in Chester, and the excitement of crossing into Scotland. The spontaneous moments (especially at Mayburgh Henge) made the journey even more enjoyable.

Next Up:

Our first full day in Edinburgh — walking the Royal Mile and visiting Edinburgh Castle. NEXT…

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Stonehenge at Sunrise, Avebury & Bath: A Magical Day in Southern England (Days 5–6)

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Introduction

After our busy castle day in Kent, we continued our journey westward. Days 5 and 6 turned out to be some of the most memorable of the entire trip — featuring an extremely early morning at Stonehenge, ancient stone circles, and the beautiful city of Bath.

Day 5: Portsmouth, HMS Victory & Moving Toward Stonehenge

Today we drove to Portsmouth so Dave could visit HMS Victory. As a huge military history buff who had been there decades earlier, he specifically chose this stop. The ship is currently under restoration but we were able to do the tour and hear the stories of its glory days and of the sacrifices that were made along the way. Here’s a bit of her story:

HMS Victory, Lord Nelson’s famous flagship at the Battle of Trafalgar, is the world’s oldest commissioned naval vessel. Still in active service with the Royal Navy after more than 260 years, she serves as the flagship of the First Sea Lord and welcomes visitors at Portsmouth Historic Dockyard.

Built between 1759 and 1765, she consumed around 6,000 trees—mostly oak—equivalent to 60 acres of woodland. Though a massive 104-gun first-rate ship, Victory was surprisingly fast, reaching 11 knots under sail. Her hull was later copper-sheathed to protect against shipworms, and sailors aboard drank beer or wine instead of water, which spoiled too quickly. The name “Victory” even carried superstition, as the previous ship with that name had sunk with all hands.

A veteran of the American War of Independence, French Revolutionary Wars, and Napoleonic Wars, she fought at Ushant, Cape St. Vincent, and Trafalgar in 1805, where she lost 57 killed and 102 wounded—including Nelson. Today, very little of her original 1765 timber remains due to constant restoration. Well worth a visit if you’re in Portsmouth!​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​

Afterwards we drove to Freemantle to gather with Dave’s cousin Blaine and his family for a phenomenal feast of Indian cuisine at Coriander Lounge. Finally, we checked into our AirBnB and turned in early since we had an insanely early booking for Stonehenge.

Day 6: Stonehenge at Sunrise & Avebury

3am comes early when you have a 5:30 reservation for the inner circle tour at Stonehenge!!! We arrived in Freemantle last night to find our AirBnB was not as advertised. When we woke up we made the snap decision to pack up and take everything with us and find another place to stay that was closer to our next destination in Chester. We made it out quickly and arrived on time for our Stonehenge tour.

The morning fog gave a perfect mystical vibe to the stones. Our guide, Chris, was really funny and knowledgeable! As he gave his instructions on visitor guidelines he “requested” that we refrain from touching, hugging, licking, or kissing the stones and that everyone please keep their clothes on. As the tour group gave a chuckle he said, “Oh, you laugh…”, because apparently people have to be told this. He also informed us that all these actions are a criminal offense that could land us in prison! Yikes! We spent close to an hour examining the site and asking questions before moving along to our next stop, Avebury Henge and Stone Circles.

This was a self-guided tour through pastures filled with large standing stones, sheep, and lots of sheep sh**! Watch your step!!! You may even want to wear galoshes. The early morning light bathed the countryside making it look like a painting. It was perfect! Check out the pics below.

Bath & Bristol

Next stop, Bath. Along the way we stopped at a cafe for coffee and a bite and arrived to find the city bustling with people and street performers. Bath Abbey towered above as we walked along the River Avon toward Pulteney Bridge and found ourselves at Thai Weir where we ordered a bottle of wine to enjoy on the balcony as we did some people watching and marveled at our surroundings. Another beautiful day in England!

We found a place to stay in Bristol, made ourselves some dinner and hit the hay by 9pm after our long day.

Tips for Stonehenge & This Route

•  Book your Stonehenge Inner Circle experience well ahead of time. These exclusive sunrise or sunset tours (which let you walk among the stones) are very limited and sell out months in advance — catching the sunrise there feels truly magical. Note that the English Heritage Pass covers standard entry but not these special timed access tickets, which must be booked separately.

•  Don’t skip Avebury. It’s completely free to visit, far less crowded than Stonehenge, and absolutely worth adding to your itinerary. Plus, you can lick, hug, and kiss the stones all you want!

Fun Facts for these sites.

Stonehenge

•  Builders transported some bluestones over 240 km (150 miles) from Wales — without wheels or modern tools.

•  The largest sarsen stones weigh about 25 tons each (as heavy as four African elephants).

•  The site aligns perfectly with the summer solstice sunrise and construction spanned over 1,000 years, starting around 5,000 years ago.

Avebury

•  It features the largest stone circle in Britain (originally about 100 stones) and shares the same UNESCO World Heritage Site listing as Stonehenge.

•  Built roughly 4,600 years ago, the henge’s ditch and bank actually enclose part of the modern village.

•  Unlike Stonehenge, you can wander freely among the stones for a more intimate prehistoric experience.

Bath

•  The Romans called it Aquae Sulis and developed grand baths around the natural hot springs.

•  Jane Austen lived in Bath and drew inspiration for novels like Northanger Abbey and Persuasion.

•  The entire city center is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, famous for its elegant Georgian architecture including the Royal Crescent.

Final Thoughts

These two days had such a great mix of history, scenery, and spontaneity. From standing among ancient stones at sunrise to enjoying wine with a view in Bath, it reminded us why we love these kinds of trips. The early wake-up was tough, but moments like these make it all worthwhile.

Next Up:

Our drive north to Chester, a surprise stop in Liverpool at The Cavern Club, and our first full day walking the ancient walls of Chester. NEXT…

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English Heritage Castles & Southeast Coast Adventure: Dover, Deal & More (Day 4)

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A Peaceful Morning Surprise

As I was folding laundry in the early hours of the morning, whilst everyone else was still getting their beauty sleep, I caught a glimpse of two small deer outside our front window. They scampered in and out so quickly I was lucky to get a shot! (Check it out below.)

Heading to the Southeast Coast

With our English Heritage Pass ready to go, we drove toward the southeast coast — only about 20 miles from France at its closest point. The area feels steeped in history, and we were excited to pack in as many sites as possible.

Our Historic Sites

Here’s where the day took us: Click on the links to get the full history cited on the English Heritage site.

•  Knights Templar Church Ruins — A hauntingly peaceful start to our day. These atmospheric roofless stone walls, dating from the late 12th century, stand quietly in an open field. Believed to have served as both a chapel and a lookout point for the mysterious Knights Templar, the ruins have an almost magical, otherworldly feel — perfect for imagining medieval knights and centuries of silent history.

•  Dover Castle — The star of the day! Perched dramatically on the white cliffs overlooking the Channel, this mighty fortress has guarded England for over 2,000 years.

We explored the towering keep, the fascinating secret tunnels used during the Dunkirk evacuation, and the remarkable 2,000-year-old Roman lighthouse — one of the oldest standing buildings in Britain. Absolutely breathtaking views and history at every turn.

•  Walmer Castle — A beautiful contrast to the more military forts, Walmer Castle was originally built as one of Henry VIII’s coastal defences but later became the official residence of the Lord Warden of the Cinque Ports.

What we loved most were its stunning gardens — peaceful, colourful, and perfectly manicured. From formal beds and a working kitchen garden to the famous Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother’s Garden with its rose-filled parterres, the grounds feel like a tranquil English country estate. After a full day of exploring stone ruins and tunnels, these lush gardens were the perfect peaceful finale.

•  Deal Castle — Henry VIII’s distinctive circular artillery fort — we loved exploring “The Rounds” — the atmospheric, narrow tunnels built within the thickness of the outer walls. Walking round and round in this dim, circular passage really brought the castle’s defensive purpose to life as you imagine soldiers moving quickly to any threat.

•  Richborough Roman Fort & Amphitheater — One of Britain’s most important Roman sites — and the very spot where the Romans first landed in AD 43 during Emperor Claudius’s massive invasion.

We stood on the same ground where nearly 40,000 Roman soldiers came ashore nearly 2,000 years ago. The huge defensive walls, ditches, and the remains of the amphitheatre still visible in the landscape made history feel incredibly alive. A powerful and humbling place.

•  St. Augustine’s Cross — A peaceful and powerful finale to our history-filled day. This tall stone cross marks the spot where St. Augustine is believed to have landed in 597 AD, bringing Christianity to England.

Standing beside it, we reflected on how one mission changed the course of British history forever. Simple, moving, and deeply meaningful.

By the end of the day we’d walked nearly 5 miles. We were tired but completely thrilled with everything we’d seen.

Evening Wind-Down

We headed back to Ide Hill and stopped once again at The King’s Head — this time for proper fish & chips. (The beef stroganoff from our first night there had been so good that we were excited to try another classic!) Back at our cozy Airbnb, we opened wine, put on some music, and recapped the day’s adventures. It was the perfect way to wrap up our wonderful Kent chapter.

Fun Facts from Day 4

•  The Knights Templar Church ruins date to the late 12th century and may have served as both a chapel and a lookout point for the mysterious Knights Templar.

•  Dover Castle has been a defensive stronghold for over 2,000 years and includes one of the oldest standing buildings in Britain — a Roman lighthouse from the 2nd century AD.

•  Walmer Castle later became the official residence of the Lord Warden of the Cinque Ports. The Duke of Wellington died here in 1852, and his modest room is still preserved with his original armchair and boots.

•  Deal Castle’s unique circular “Tudor rose” design with six bastions was part of Henry VIII’s coastal defense system built in 1539–1540.

•  Richborough Roman Fort is believed to be the landing site of Emperor Claudius’s massive invasion fleet (around 40,000 soldiers) in AD 43.

•  St. Augustine’s Cross commemorates the 597 AD landing of St. Augustine, whose mission helped convert the Anglo-Saxons and shape England’s Christian history.

Final Thoughts from Day 4

This day perfectly captured the incredible variety of English history — from ancient Romans and medieval knights to Tudor kings and early Christian roots — all in one corner of the country. Sharing it with Jerry, Dave, and Karen made it even more memorable. A wonderful finale to our peaceful time in Kent.

Next Up:

We leave Kent and head toward Portsmouth to see the historic HMS Victory, followed by a magical sunrise at Stonehenge! NEXT…

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Arrival in Kent: Jet Lag, London Eye & First Impressions of England (Days 1-3)

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Introduction

In late April 2024, my husband Jerry and I, along with our dear friends Dave and Karen, set off on a 25-day adventure through England, Scotland, and Ireland. After months of planning (and more than a few FaceTime chats), we were excited to finally trade our everyday routines for castles, winding countryside lanes, and plenty of shared discoveries.

Jerry and I flew from Denver, while Dave and Karen flew in from Los Angeles. We met up at Heathrow Airport, bleary-eyed but buzzing with excitement. After a long 9-hour flight and wrestling with the 7-hour time difference, we collected our rental car and hit the road.

The rental car pickup provided our first “we’re not in Colorado anymore” moment. As we merged onto the roadway, we suddenly weren’t sure if the speed limit signs were in miles per hour or kilometers per hour. (The UK uses the metric system, right?!) We spent the first few minutes doing mental math and second-guessing every sign until we realized, with a mix of relief and laughter, that the roads in Britain still use good old miles. Classic rookie travelers — we were already off to a memorable start!

Within hours, England began working its magic on us. The countryside unfolded like a storybook, and we quickly realized this trip was going to be even better than we had imagined.

Day 1: Touchdown & The Drive to Ide Hill

After hitting the road, our first practical stop was a quick detour to Costco for supplies. Jet-lagged but determined, we stocked up on snacks, breakfast essentials, and a few familiar comforts (wine) to ease us into the trip.

Jerry and Dave took on all the driving duties for the entire 25 days, while Karen and I helped handle navigation. We’d all agreed beforehand that we would constantly remind the driver to “stay left,” which helped keep us on the correct (well… the wrong) side of the road while smoothly (mostly) navigating the endless roundabouts. It was definitely an adjustment at first!

The drive south to our charming Airbnb in Ide Hill, Kent, was both beautiful and a little nerve-wracking. Those narrow country lanes lined with tall hedgerows were incredibly picturesque, and we soaked in our first real views of the classic English countryside. We were all relieved and excited when we finally pulled up to our cozy cottage-style home. It was perfect for the four of us, with lovely views from every window.

That evening we went to The King’s Head pub for dinner. We all tried the beef stroganoff, which was rich and comforting after our long travel day. Our server, Sophie, was wonderfully friendly and gave us great tips for catching the train into London the next day. Exhausted but happy, we were all tucked into bed by 8pm.

Day 2: Our First London Day Trip

Jet lag hit us hard — Jerry and I woke up at 3am! After making coffee, we took a lovely walk through a nearby forest as the sun came up. Once everyone was ready, we drove to the train station in Sevenoaks and caught a train into London.

We had a mostly sunny day, which was a nice surprise. We started with the Tower of London and walked across Tower Bridge, where the glass floor was both exciting and a little scary. We hopped on a classic red double-decker bus, then stopped at Brewdog Brewery for a refreshing mango sour while waiting for our next activity.

We bought our London Eye tickets online the same day after checking the weather forecast. We lucked out with beautiful clear skies, and the 360° views from the top were spectacular. We could clearly see the Shard, Big Ben, the Walkie Talkie building, and so much of London’s skyline.

We ended the day walking through the Graffiti Tunnel before taking the train back to Ide Hill. A simple “wine dinner” (charcuterie, cheeses, and good wine) was the perfect way to end the day.

Day 3: More London Exploring

We woke to classic English fog and a very plump pheasant outside our window — such a quintessential English moment! After coffee, we headed back into London.

We walked past Big Ben, Westminster Abbey, through St. James’s Park, and over to Buckingham Palace. We stopped for a drink at the Golden Lion pub before continuing to Piccadilly Circus, where we enjoyed traditional fish & chips at Mr. Fogg’s Tavern. We finished at Trafalgar Square before returning to Kent.

That evening we had sourdough crust pizza at The Pheasant Plucker along with more wine and music. These relaxed evenings with our friends quickly became some of my favorite memories.

Helpful Tips from Our First Days

•  English Heritage Pass: This was one of our smartest purchases. With so many castles and historic sites on our itinerary, it provided free entry to many of them and saved us a nice chunk of money throughout the trip.

•  Trains from smaller towns: Trains from places like Sevenoaks into London were wonderfully easy and efficient—perfect for quick city escapes without the stress of driving.

•  London Eye tickets: We bought ours online the same day after checking the weather forecast. We were lucky with mostly sunny skies during our visit, which made the views absolutely spectacular.

Fun Facts from Our First Days in Kent & London

•  Those iconic tall hedgerows lining the narrow country lanes aren’t just pretty — many are hundreds of years old (some over 800 years!) and were originally planted as living fences to keep livestock in and mark property boundaries. They’re so valuable that locals actually warned us: in a scrape on those tiny roads, you’d almost rather hit another car than plow through one of these protected “living walls”!

•  Ide Hill sits on one of the highest points in Kent, giving our cozy Airbnb those stunning panoramic views over the Weald below. The village name dates all the way back to 1250, originally recorded as “Edythehelle” — basically “Edith’s Hill.” It’s in an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, so those storybook scenes from every window were the real deal.

•  The King’s Head pub in Bessels Green has that welcoming village-pub charm for a reason — many pubs with this name trace their roots back to the reign of Henry VIII. Our friendly server Sophie felt like a perfect introduction to British hospitality.

•  The London Eye isn’t technically a Ferris wheel. It’s the world’s tallest cantilevered observation wheel (supported on only one side). It was originally built as a temporary attraction for the millennium celebrations in 2000, but it proved so popular that they decided to keep it permanently. Bonus: there’s no capsule #13 because of superstition!

Final Thoughts

Our first three days nailed the perfect travel rhythm right from the start. We bounced between proper London sightseeing (the kind that makes your feet ache in the best way) and quiet countryside evenings, and somehow it all felt just right. Jet lag? Handled. Roundabouts? Survived. By the end of those early days, the four of us — Jerry, Dave, Karen, and me — were already laughing about our rookie moments and completely hooked on the adventure ahead.

Up Next:

Our full-day English Heritage adventure visiting multiple castles and historic sites along England’s southeast coast, including the impressive Dover Castle! NEXT…

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3 Weeks in England, Scotland & Ireland: Our 2024 Vacation Recap (April 28-May23)

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Introduction

In late April and May of 2024, my husband Jerry and I, along with our dear friends Dave and Karen, spent 25 wonderful days traveling through England, Scotland, and Ireland. It was a classic multi-country vacation filled with history, stunning landscapes, great food, and plenty of laughs.

Trip Overview

Route: Kent → Southern & Central England → Scotland (Edinburgh & Highlands) → Ireland (Bray & Dublin area)

Travel Style: Mostly rental cars, with trains for city day trips and one short flight between England and Ireland.

We stayed in AirBnBs and cottages, cooked many meals together, and enjoyed the freedom of exploring at our own pace.

Our Route at a Glance

•  Days 1–4: Kent countryside base + London day trips

•  Days 5–9: Southern & Central England → Liverpool → Chester → drive into Scotland

•  Days 10–15: Edinburgh + Scottish Highlands & Isle of Skye

•  Days 16–19: Farewell to Scotland → Hadrian’s Wall → Whitby & Yorkshire Coast

•  Days 20–25: Ireland (Bray base + Dublin + Glendalough & Wicklow Mountains)

Top Highlights

•  Sunrise inside the Stonehenge inner circle

•  Dramatic clifftop Dunnottar Castle

•  The challenging but rewarding Old Man of Storr hike on Skye

•  Foggy, atmospheric Whitby Abbey (Dracula vibes)

•  Celebrating our 36th anniversary in Dublin with Guinness and city views

•  Newgrange, Glendalough, and the scenic Sally Gap drive

What We Learned & Tips

•  Traveling with close friends enhanced the experience — shared laughs, driving, and costs made everything better.

•  The English Heritage Pass (England) and Historic Scotland Explorer Pass were excellent investments.

•  Bring excellent waterproof shoes — even in late April/early May, the ground can be wet at many outdoor sites.

•  Several sites we visited (including Rudston Monolith) have appeared on the History Channel’s Ancient Aliens, which added extra fun for us.

The Full Series

I’m sharing our complete trip in individual detailed posts. Here’s the lineup (new posts added weekly):

Final Thoughts

This trip reminded us why we love traveling — the shared experiences, the unexpected moments, and the beauty of seeing the world with people you love. England, Scotland, and Ireland each have their own special charm, and we’re already talking about going back to see more of Ireland.
Would we do it again? Absolutely.

Have you traveled with friends or celebrated a big anniversary on a trip?

I’d love to hear your experiences or recommendations in the comments!

Planning Your Own UK & Ireland Adventure

If this three-week journey through England, Scotland, and Ireland has inspired you to plan a similar trip, GoWithGuide is an excellent way to make it smooth and memorable. Their local expert guides can create private, customizable tours tailored to your interests — whether you’re exploring historic cities in England, the Highlands of Scotland, or the stunning landscapes and culture of Ireland.

For England & Scotland (UK):
Book Private Tours in England & Scotland with GoWithGuide →

For Ireland:
Book Private Tours in Ireland with GoWithGuide →

These are affiliate links. If you book through them, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. It helps support this blog so I can keep sharing more travel stories and photography from across the UK and Ireland. Thank you!

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Arches National Park – Moab, Utah

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We’ve returned to Arches National Park multiple times now, and every single visit still leaves us speechless. Tucked just outside Moab, Utah, this otherworldly landscape feels like stepping onto another planet—one where wind and time have carved impossible stone sculptures against a brilliant blue sky.

Hiking to Delicate Arch: Worth Every Step

If you’re up for it, the roughly half-mile hike to Delicate Arch is an absolute must. The first time we tackled it, I’ll admit I was skeptical—silently thinking, “This better be good!” But the moment we rounded that final bend and the arch came into full view, towering against the red rock and endless horizon, every doubt vanished. We stood there in stunned silence.
Some wonders simply refuse to be captured in photos. There’s a raw, electric magic in experiencing Delicate Arch up close—the way the light shifts across its curves, the vastness that makes you feel wonderfully small. It’s the kind of moment that stays with you forever.
Can’t hike? No problem. Scenic drives let you admire the arch from a distance on the other side, so you won’t miss its majesty. And Delicate Arch is just the beginning. The park is packed with accessible arches you can reach by car, plus dozens more that reward hikes of varying difficulty—each one more surprising than the last.

One Day Is Never Enough:

Like most national parks, Arches begs for more than a rushed afternoon. Give yourself time to truly soak it in. Camp inside the park if you can, or base yourself in vibrant Moab. The town itself is a gem—filled with quirky shops, world-class art galleries, fantastic restaurants, and excellent microbreweries. You could easily spend days exploring both the park and town without running out of things to do.

Don’t Stop at Arches

While you’re in the area, make the short drive to Canyonlands National Park and Dead Horse Point State Park. The views at Dead Horse Point are nothing short of cinematic—some say they inspired the final scenes of Thelma & Louise.

If you’re feeling ambitious, look up the popular 10-day itinerary for The Mighty 5  where you can visit all five of Utah’s National Parks! Grab an America the Beautiful annual pass before you go—it’ll pay for itself quickly.

Essential Tips from Experience

As always, be sure to bring plenty of water, sunscreen, and maybe a hat to help keep you from burning up out there. Depending on the weather you may also need an umbrella. On one of our more recent visits we ended up getting a little wet because we were ill prepared.

Bottom line:

Arches National Park delivers one epic adventure after another. Whether it’s your first time or your fifth, the red rocks will steal your heart and leave you planning your next visit before you’ve even left.
Have you been to Arches yet? Drop your favorite moment in the comments—I’d love to hear about it!

Have an epic adventure!


Petroglyphs on a rock in Arches National Park in Moab, Utah
A cluster of red rock formations called the Fiery Furnace in Arches National Park near Moab, Utah
A path running along a ledge in Arches National Park leading to Delicate Arch
A trail of hikers climbing up a red rock landscape headed to see Delicate Arch in Arches National Park near Moab, Utah