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First Full Day in Edinburgh: Royal Mile, Castle & Scottish Impressions (Day 10)

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We woke up on Day 10 to a view of Arthur’s Seat from our apartment window. After days of driving and exploring remote ruins, it felt wonderfully refreshing to be based in a vibrant city again. Scotland was already winning us over.

We began the morning with a gentle uphill walk along the Royal Mile to Edinburgh Castle for our 9:30am tour. Along the way, we passed the charming little 16th-century Queen Mary’s Bathhouse, a picturesque turreted building just outside the Palace of Holyroodhouse.

The castle itself felt more like a living museum than the ancient ruins we’d seen earlier in the trip, but its position high above the city delivered spectacular views. The cannon gunports offered perfect “framed” shots of the rooftops and spires below, and we were charmed by the historic Dog Cemetery—dating back to 1837—with its tiny headstones honoring soldiers’ and officers’ loyal dogs (and a few other pets).

After leaving the castle, we wandered down Cockburn Street and enjoyed a relaxed lunch of wine and charcuterie at a cozy spot. Feeling revived, we made one of the best decisions of the trip: hopping on a double-decker hop-on hop-off bus tour. It gave us an excellent overview of the city’s layout and helped us decide where to spend more time. After walking more than six miles already, the ride was a very welcome rest for our feet.

The bus route took us past several standout landmarks, including the towering Scott Monument and Calton Hill. We hopped off to explore the hill’s impressive monuments: the Nelson Monument, the Dugald Stewart Monument, and the unfinished Scottish National Monument.

We returned to our apartment in the late afternoon and cooked a simple but satisfying dinner—bunless burgers topped with cheddar, bacon, and eggs. Having a kitchen during this trip has been an absolute blessing after long days of sightseeing.

Practical Tips for Edinburgh

• Book Edinburgh Castle tickets in advance, especially for morning slots—they sell out quickly. (This destination is included with the Historic Scotland Explorer Pass.)

• Take a hop-on hop-off bus tour on your first day. It’s one of the smartest ways to get oriented.

• The Royal Mile has some steep sections—comfortable walking shoes are essential.

• Staying somewhere with a kitchen helps you balance restaurant meals, save money, and recharge after busy days.

Fun Facts

•  Arthur’s Seat is an extinct volcano that last erupted around 350 million years ago. At 251 meters (823 feet) tall, it offers some of the best views over Edinburgh. In 1836, boys discovered 17 mysterious miniature coffins containing tiny wooden figures in a cave on its slopes—their purpose is still unknown.

•  The Royal Mile is actually 1.07 miles long and follows the ridge of an ancient volcano, which explains its steep sections.

•  Queen Mary’s Bath House (16th century) is more likely a garden pavilion or summer house than an actual bathhouse. The story of Mary, Queen of Scots bathing in wine or goat’s milk here is a charming legend with no historical proof.

•  Edinburgh Castle has been besieged at least 26 times, making it one of the most attacked places in Britain. It sits atop an extinct volcano (Castle Rock). The cannon batteries and gunports in this area are part of the Argyle Battery and Half Moon Battery. This is also home to the famous One O’Clock Gun, which has been fired daily (except Sundays) at 1:00 pm since 1861 to help ships in the Firth of Forth set their clocks.

•  The Dog Cemetery dates to the 1840s and holds about 20 small headstones for officers’ pets and regimental mascots. The first burial was Fido in 1847; the dogs often accompanied soldiers on global campaigns. It’s viewable only from above to protect the site.

•  The Scott Monument is a 61-meter (200 ft) Gothic tower dedicated to Sir Walter Scott, the author of Ivanhoe and many other classics. It’s the second-largest monument to a writer in the world and features 68 statues of characters from his novels. Scott is depicted at the base with his beloved deerhound, Maida.

•  Calton Hill is another volcanic outcrop and part of Edinburgh’s UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its collection of monuments gives it a dramatic, almost Athenian feel—earning the city its nickname “Athens of the North.”

•  The Nelson Monument looks like an upturned telescope and honors Admiral Lord Nelson’s victory at the Battle of Trafalgar (1805). It once had a time ball that dropped at 1 pm to help ships synchronize clocks.

•  The Dugald Stewart Monument is an elegant circular temple honoring the Scottish Enlightenment philosopher. Its design by William Henry Playfair perfectly frames the city views and is one of the most photographed spots on the hill.

•  The Scottish National Monument was meant to be a full replica of the Parthenon in Athens to honor Scottish soldiers who died in the Napoleonic Wars. Funds ran out, leaving the dramatic unfinished “ruin” you see today—often called “Scotland’s Disgrace” or “Edinburgh’s Folly.

Final Thoughts from Our First Day in Scotland

Edinburgh felt alive, historic, and full of character. The blend of medieval streets, grand architecture, and energetic city buzz made us fall in love with Scotland almost instantly. We couldn’t wait to explore more of the capital and beyond in the coming days.

Next Up:

Day trips from Edinburgh including The Kelpies (the giant horse sculptures), the Falkirk Wheel, and the Wallace Monument — plus more evening exploring in the city.

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Liverpool, Chester Walls & Driving into Scotland (Days 7–9)

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Introduction

After our Stonehenge and Bath adventures, we continued heading north. Days 7 through 9 were a nice mix of a fun music detour, deep history in Chester, and our official crossing into Scotland.

Day 7: Liverpool Stop & Arrival in Chester

We left Bristol with some extra time, so we decided to make a detour to Liverpool to visit The Cavern Club — the famous underground venue where The Beatles got their start. The club is small, dark, and full of history. We stayed for a while, had a beer, and listened to a local musician. It was a fun, lighter stop that broke up all the historic sites we’d been visiting.

From Liverpool, we continued on to Chester and checked into our Airbnb right in the heart of the city. Our accommodations were wonderful—definitely a step up from the last two places. It was a good reminder that you can’t always trust the pictures on the Airbnb site; it’s worth reading the reviews carefully and looking very closely at the photos before booking.

After settling in, we took a short evening walk to get our first glimpse of the famous city walls.​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​

Day 8: Exploring Chester

The next day we fully explored Chester. We walked the entire Chester City Walls — the oldest, longest, and most complete Roman walls in Britain (nearly 2,000 years old and 1.8 miles long). The views from the top over the city were beautiful and really brought the history to life.

We also wandered through the Roman Gardens, visited the amphitheater remains, and explored Chester Cathedral. We ended up spending quite a bit of time there, slowly wandering through the nave and side chapels while marveling over the incredibly detailed carvings — the stonework was so intricate, with everything from delicate foliage to biblical scenes and grotesque gargoyles. The cathedral’s towering ceilings, intricate carvings, and stunning stained glass windows were truly impressive. We finished the afternoon with some people-watching and a relaxing glass of wine on a sunny patio before heading back to our Airbnb.

Day 9: Driving from Chester into Scotland

On Day 9 we left Chester around 9am for the 4.5-hour drive to Edinburgh. We made several enjoyable stops along the way:

•  Brougham Castle – A 13th-century ruin where we climbed the steep spiral staircase for great views.

•  Mayburgh Henge – A stone circle where Jerry and Dave had a spontaneous moment — they took off their shirts and “frolicked” to the remaining stone while Karen and I laughed from the bank. It was one of the funniest moments of the trip!

•  Arthur’s Round Table and Penrith Castle – Quick stops that added to the scenic drive.

The landscape became more dramatic as we crossed into Scotland. It felt like a real milestone in our journey.

Tips for These Days

•  The Cavern Club is worth a stop if you have any interest in The Beatles.

•  Chester is very walkable — plan at least half a day for the walls and cathedral.

•  The drive from Chester to Edinburgh is pleasant with good stops. Build in extra time if you enjoy ruins and stone circles.

Fun Facts About Our Stops

Here are some interesting tidbits about the places we visited — they added even more appreciation for the history along the way!

•  The Cavern Club, Liverpool: This legendary underground venue opened in 1957 as a jazz club but became the epicenter of the British rock scene. The Beatles performed here an incredible 292 times between 1961 and 1963. It’s small, sweaty, and atmospheric — exactly as it was in the early days, with the original stage still in use.

•  Chester City Walls: These are Britain’s most complete circuit of ancient city walls and the only ones in the country that still form a full, unbroken loop around the city. In the 18th century, they stopped being used for defense and were turned into a fashionable public walkway — complete with steps added for easier strolling and even a few quirky traditions like the “Wishing Steps,” where locals say if you can run up and down without taking a breath, your wish will come true!

•  Brougham Castle: Built in the early 13th century by Robert de Vieuxpont on the site of a Roman fort (Brocavum). It was later restored in the 17th century by the formidable Lady Anne Clifford, who loved it so much that she died there. Locals once believed a giant named Turquin lived in the ruins — a legend possibly linked to Arthurian tales of Sir Lancelot!

•  Mayburgh Henge: This massive Neolithic henge (about 4,500 years old) was built using an estimated 20,000 tons of river cobbles from the nearby River Eamont — no ditch, just an enormous stone bank up to 15 feet high. Only one giant standing stone remains in the center (there were once several). It’s one of the most impressive and least-visited prehistoric monuments in Britain.

•  Arthur’s Round Table: Despite the name, this Neolithic henge (around 2000 BC) has nothing to do with King Arthur — the association came centuries later. It’s a large circular earthwork with banks and ditches, located just 400 meters from Mayburgh Henge. In the 19th century, a local pub owner even turned part of it into a tea garden!

•  Penrith Castle: Constructed in the late 14th century in distinctive red sandstone to defend against Scottish raids. It later became a residence for Richard, Duke of Gloucester (the future King Richard III). The ruins sit right in the middle of a peaceful park today, making for a lovely quick stop.

These little details made the drive feel like a journey through thousands of years of history in just one day!

Final Thoughts

These three days offered a great balance — music nostalgia in Liverpool, rich history in Chester, and the excitement of crossing into Scotland. The spontaneous moments (especially at Mayburgh Henge) made the journey even more enjoyable.

Next Up:

Our first full day in Edinburgh — walking the Royal Mile and visiting Edinburgh Castle.

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English Heritage Castles & Southeast Coast Adventure: Dover, Deal & More (Day 4)

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A Peaceful Morning Surprise

As I was folding laundry in the early hours of the morning, whilst everyone else was still getting their beauty sleep, I caught a glimpse of two small deer outside our front window. They scampered in and out so quickly I was lucky to get a shot! (Check it out below.)

Heading to the Southeast Coast

With our English Heritage Pass ready to go, we drove toward the southeast coast — only about 20 miles from France at its closest point. The area feels steeped in history, and we were excited to pack in as many sites as possible.

Our Historic Sites

Here’s where the day took us: Click on the links to get the full history cited on the English Heritage site.

•  Knights Templar Church Ruins — A hauntingly peaceful start to our day. These atmospheric roofless stone walls, dating from the late 12th century, stand quietly in an open field. Believed to have served as both a chapel and a lookout point for the mysterious Knights Templar, the ruins have an almost magical, otherworldly feel — perfect for imagining medieval knights and centuries of silent history.

•  Dover Castle — The star of the day! Perched dramatically on the white cliffs overlooking the Channel, this mighty fortress has guarded England for over 2,000 years.

We explored the towering keep, the fascinating secret tunnels used during the Dunkirk evacuation, and the remarkable 2,000-year-old Roman lighthouse — one of the oldest standing buildings in Britain. Absolutely breathtaking views and history at every turn.

•  Walmer Castle — A beautiful contrast to the more military forts, Walmer Castle was originally built as one of Henry VIII’s coastal defences but later became the official residence of the Lord Warden of the Cinque Ports.

What we loved most were its stunning gardens — peaceful, colourful, and perfectly manicured. From formal beds and a working kitchen garden to the famous Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother’s Garden with its rose-filled parterres, the grounds feel like a tranquil English country estate. After a full day of exploring stone ruins and tunnels, these lush gardens were the perfect peaceful finale.

•  Deal Castle — Henry VIII’s distinctive circular artillery fort — we loved exploring “The Rounds” — the atmospheric, narrow tunnels built within the thickness of the outer walls. Walking round and round in this dim, circular passage really brought the castle’s defensive purpose to life as you imagine soldiers moving quickly to any threat.

•  Richborough Roman Fort & Amphitheater — One of Britain’s most important Roman sites — and the very spot where the Romans first landed in AD 43 during Emperor Claudius’s massive invasion.

We stood on the same ground where nearly 40,000 Roman soldiers came ashore nearly 2,000 years ago. The huge defensive walls, ditches, and the remains of the amphitheatre still visible in the landscape made history feel incredibly alive. A powerful and humbling place.

•  St. Augustine’s Cross — A peaceful and powerful finale to our history-filled day. This tall stone cross marks the spot where St. Augustine is believed to have landed in 597 AD, bringing Christianity to England.

Standing beside it, we reflected on how one mission changed the course of British history forever. Simple, moving, and deeply meaningful.

By the end of the day we’d walked nearly 5 miles. We were tired but completely thrilled with everything we’d seen.

Evening Wind-Down

We headed back to Ide Hill and stopped once again at The King’s Head — this time for proper fish & chips. (The beef stroganoff from our first night there had been so good that we were excited to try another classic!) Back at our cozy Airbnb, we opened wine, put on some music, and recapped the day’s adventures. It was the perfect way to wrap up our wonderful Kent chapter.

Fun Facts from Day 4

•  The Knights Templar Church ruins date to the late 12th century and may have served as both a chapel and a lookout point for the mysterious Knights Templar.

•  Dover Castle has been a defensive stronghold for over 2,000 years and includes one of the oldest standing buildings in Britain — a Roman lighthouse from the 2nd century AD.

•  Walmer Castle later became the official residence of the Lord Warden of the Cinque Ports. The Duke of Wellington died here in 1852, and his modest room is still preserved with his original armchair and boots.

•  Deal Castle’s unique circular “Tudor rose” design with six bastions was part of Henry VIII’s coastal defense system built in 1539–1540.

•  Richborough Roman Fort is believed to be the landing site of Emperor Claudius’s massive invasion fleet (around 40,000 soldiers) in AD 43.

•  St. Augustine’s Cross commemorates the 597 AD landing of St. Augustine, whose mission helped convert the Anglo-Saxons and shape England’s Christian history.

Final Thoughts from Day 4

This day perfectly captured the incredible variety of English history — from ancient Romans and medieval knights to Tudor kings and early Christian roots — all in one corner of the country. Sharing it with Jerry, Dave, and Karen made it even more memorable. A wonderful finale to our peaceful time in Kent.

Next Up:

We leave Kent and head toward Portsmouth to see the historic HMS Victory, followed by a magical sunrise at Stonehenge!

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Arrival in Kent: Jet Lag, London Eye & First Impressions of England (Days 1-3)

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Introduction

In late April 2024, my husband Jerry and I, along with our dear friends Dave and Karen, set off on a 25-day adventure through England, Scotland, and Ireland. After months of planning (and more than a few FaceTime chats), we were excited to finally trade our everyday routines for castles, winding countryside lanes, and plenty of shared discoveries.

Jerry and I flew from Denver, while Dave and Karen flew in from Los Angeles. We met up at Heathrow Airport, bleary-eyed but buzzing with excitement. After a long 9-hour flight and wrestling with the 7-hour time difference, we collected our rental car and hit the road.

The rental car pickup provided our first “we’re not in Colorado anymore” moment. As we merged onto the roadway, we suddenly weren’t sure if the speed limit signs were in miles per hour or kilometers per hour. (The UK uses the metric system, right?!) We spent the first few minutes doing mental math and second-guessing every sign until we realized, with a mix of relief and laughter, that the roads in Britain still use good old miles. Classic rookie travelers — we were already off to a memorable start!

Within hours, England began working its magic on us. The countryside unfolded like a storybook, and we quickly realized this trip was going to be even better than we had imagined.

Day 1: Touchdown & The Drive to Ide Hill

After hitting the road, our first practical stop was a quick detour to Costco for supplies. Jet-lagged but determined, we stocked up on snacks, breakfast essentials, and a few familiar comforts (wine) to ease us into the trip.

Jerry and Dave took on all the driving duties for the entire 25 days, while Karen and I helped handle navigation. We’d all agreed beforehand that we would constantly remind the driver to “stay left,” which helped keep us on the correct (well… the wrong) side of the road while smoothly (mostly) navigating the endless roundabouts. It was definitely an adjustment at first!

The drive south to our charming Airbnb in Ide Hill, Kent, was both beautiful and a little nerve-wracking. Those narrow country lanes lined with tall hedgerows were incredibly picturesque, and we soaked in our first real views of the classic English countryside. We were all relieved and excited when we finally pulled up to our cozy cottage-style home. It was perfect for the four of us, with lovely views from every window.

That evening we went to The King’s Head pub for dinner. We all tried the beef stroganoff, which was rich and comforting after our long travel day. Our server, Sophie, was wonderfully friendly and gave us great tips for catching the train into London the next day. Exhausted but happy, we were all tucked into bed by 8pm.

Day 2: Our First London Day Trip

Jet lag hit us hard — Jerry and I woke up at 3am! After making coffee, we took a lovely walk through a nearby forest as the sun came up. Once everyone was ready, we drove to the train station in Sevenoaks and caught a train into London.

We had a mostly sunny day, which was a nice surprise. We started with the Tower of London and walked across Tower Bridge, where the glass floor was both exciting and a little scary. We hopped on a classic red double-decker bus, then stopped at Brewdog Brewery for a refreshing mango sour while waiting for our next activity.

We bought our London Eye tickets online the same day after checking the weather forecast. We lucked out with beautiful clear skies, and the 360° views from the top were spectacular. We could clearly see the Shard, Big Ben, the Walkie Talkie building, and so much of London’s skyline.

We ended the day walking through the Graffiti Tunnel before taking the train back to Ide Hill. A simple “wine dinner” (charcuterie, cheeses, and good wine) was the perfect way to end the day.

Day 3: More London Exploring

We woke to classic English fog and a very plump pheasant outside our window — such a quintessential English moment! After coffee, we headed back into London.

We walked past Big Ben, Westminster Abbey, through St. James’s Park, and over to Buckingham Palace. We stopped for a drink at the Golden Lion pub before continuing to Piccadilly Circus, where we enjoyed traditional fish & chips at Mr. Fogg’s Tavern. We finished at Trafalgar Square before returning to Kent.

That evening we had sourdough crust pizza at The Pheasant Plucker along with more wine and music. These relaxed evenings with our friends quickly became some of my favorite memories.

Helpful Tips from Our First Days

•  English Heritage Pass: This was one of our smartest purchases. With so many castles and historic sites on our itinerary, it provided free entry to many of them and saved us a nice chunk of money throughout the trip.

•  Trains from smaller towns: Trains from places like Sevenoaks into London were wonderfully easy and efficient—perfect for quick city escapes without the stress of driving.

•  London Eye tickets: We bought ours online the same day after checking the weather forecast. We were lucky with mostly sunny skies during our visit, which made the views absolutely spectacular.

Fun Facts from Our First Days in Kent & London

•  Those iconic tall hedgerows lining the narrow country lanes aren’t just pretty — many are hundreds of years old (some over 800 years!) and were originally planted as living fences to keep livestock in and mark property boundaries. They’re so valuable that locals actually warned us: in a scrape on those tiny roads, you’d almost rather hit another car than plow through one of these protected “living walls”!

•  Ide Hill sits on one of the highest points in Kent, giving our cozy Airbnb those stunning panoramic views over the Weald below. The village name dates all the way back to 1250, originally recorded as “Edythehelle” — basically “Edith’s Hill.” It’s in an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, so those storybook scenes from every window were the real deal.

•  The King’s Head pub in Bessels Green has that welcoming village-pub charm for a reason — many pubs with this name trace their roots back to the reign of Henry VIII. Our friendly server Sophie felt like a perfect introduction to British hospitality.

•  The London Eye isn’t technically a Ferris wheel. It’s the world’s tallest cantilevered observation wheel (supported on only one side). It was originally built as a temporary attraction for the millennium celebrations in 2000, but it proved so popular that they decided to keep it permanently. Bonus: there’s no capsule #13 because of superstition!

Final Thoughts

Our first three days nailed the perfect travel rhythm right from the start. We bounced between proper London sightseeing (the kind that makes your feet ache in the best way) and quiet countryside evenings, and somehow it all felt just right. Jet lag? Handled. Roundabouts? Survived. By the end of those early days, the four of us — Jerry, Dave, Karen, and me — were already laughing about our rookie moments and completely hooked on the adventure ahead.

Up Next:

Our full-day English Heritage adventure visiting multiple castles and historic sites along England’s southeast coast, including the impressive Dover Castle!

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3 Weeks in England, Scotland & Ireland: Our 2024 Vacation Recap (April 28-May23)

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Introduction

In late April and May of 2024, my husband Jerry and I, along with our dear friends Dave and Karen, spent 25 wonderful days traveling through England, Scotland, and Ireland. It was a classic multi-country vacation filled with history, stunning landscapes, great food, and plenty of laughs.

Trip Overview

Route: Kent → Southern & Central England → Scotland (Edinburgh & Highlands) → Ireland (Bray & Dublin area)

Travel Style: Mostly rental cars, with trains for city day trips and one short flight between England and Ireland.

We stayed in AirBnBs and cottages, cooked many meals together, and enjoyed the freedom of exploring at our own pace.

Our Route at a Glance

•  Days 1–4: Kent countryside base + London day trips

•  Days 5–9: Southern & Central England → Liverpool → Chester → drive into Scotland

•  Days 10–15: Edinburgh + Scottish Highlands & Isle of Skye

•  Days 16–19: Farewell to Scotland → Hadrian’s Wall → Whitby & Yorkshire Coast

•  Days 20–25: Ireland (Bray base + Dublin + Glendalough & Wicklow Mountains)

Top Highlights

•  Sunrise inside the Stonehenge inner circle

•  Dramatic clifftop Dunnottar Castle

•  The challenging but rewarding Old Man of Storr hike on Skye

•  Foggy, atmospheric Whitby Abbey (Dracula vibes)

•  Celebrating our 36th anniversary in Dublin with Guinness and city views

•  Newgrange, Glendalough, and the scenic Sally Gap drive

What We Learned & Tips

•  Traveling with close friends enhanced the experience — shared laughs, driving, and costs made everything better.

•  The English Heritage Pass (England) and Historic Scotland Explorer Pass were excellent investments.

•  Bring excellent waterproof shoes — even in late April/early May, the ground can be wet at many outdoor sites.

•  Several sites we visited (including Rudston Monolith) have appeared on the History Channel’s Ancient Aliens, which added extra fun for us.

The Full Series

I’m sharing our complete trip in individual detailed posts. Here’s the lineup (new posts added weekly):

Final Thoughts

This trip reminded us why we love traveling — the shared experiences, the unexpected moments, and the beauty of seeing the world with people you love. England, Scotland, and Ireland each have their own special charm, and we’re already talking about going back to see more of Ireland.
Would we do it again? Absolutely.

Have you traveled with friends or celebrated a big anniversary on a trip?

I’d love to hear your experiences or recommendations in the comments!