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A Day of Ruins, Seaside Charm & Sunset Views: Rievaulx Abbey, Robin Hood’s Bay & Whitby (Day 18)

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Introduction

Day 18 started under a bit of rain and a lot of fog, but that didn’t stop us from heading out to explore more of North Yorkshire. What began as a grey morning turned into a beautiful day filled with stunning historic sites, quaint coastal villages, and one last classic English dinner before we leave England.

Day 18: Rievaulx Abbey, Robin Hood’s Bay & Whitby Highlights

We woke up to rain and thick fog but pressed on to Rievaulx Abbey. Wow! What a beautiful site. The weather cleared up nicely as we wandered the extensive ruins, and I was struck by the time and effort it takes to excavate and preserve these historic buildings and artifacts. The scale and setting of the abbey in its peaceful valley were truly impressive.

On our way back to Whitby we stopped at Robin Hood’s Bay, a quaint little seaside village, to take in the views of the North Sea. The tightly packed cottages tumbling down the steep hillside toward the water give it a storybook feel.

We made another quick stop to see the Larpool Viaduct before heading back to our flat. This impressive brick structure spans the River Esk valley and is a striking piece of Victorian engineering.

In Whitby we decided on one last fish & chips dinner before leaving England (although we opted for salad instead of potatoes today). First, though, we walked up the hill to see the Whalebone Arch. From there you get a classic view across the way to Whitby Abbey, which we will check out tomorrow.

After dinner we took a walk around town and found ourselves on the other side of the inlet for a beautiful sunset. A perfect way to close out the day.

Helpful Tips for Visiting These Spots

• Check the weather forecast — Yorkshire weather can change quickly from fog and rain to clear skies.

• Rievaulx Abbey is managed by English Heritage; check opening times and consider buying tickets in advance in peak season.

• Parking at Robin Hood’s Bay is limited at the top of the village — the lower streets are very narrow and steep, so it’s best to walk down.

• Wear comfortable shoes for exploring abbey ruins, village lanes, and the hills of Whitby.

• Larpool Viaduct is now part of a walking/cycling path (the Cinder Track) — easy to access for a quick photo stop.

• The Whalebone Arch is on West Cliff and offers one of the best framed views of Whitby Abbey — great for photos at any time of day, especially near sunset.

• Fish and chips are a Whitby classic, but many places offer lighter options if you prefer.

• Allow time to simply wander Whitby’s streets and harbour — the town rewards unhurried exploration.

Fun Facts

Rievaulx Abbey

• Founded in 1132, it was the first Cistercian abbey in the north of England.

• Under its most famous abbot, Aelred of Rievaulx (1147–1167), the community grew to around 140 monks and 500 lay brothers at its peak.

• The abbey was suppressed in 1538 during Henry VIII’s Dissolution of the Monasteries. The extensive ruins that remain are among the finest surviving Cistercian buildings in England and were later admired by Romantic artists and writers.

Robin Hood’s Bay

• The origin of the name is uncertain and there is no solid evidence that the legendary Robin Hood ever visited.

• In the 18th century it was one of the busiest smuggling communities on the Yorkshire coast — locals used the maze of narrow alleys and alleged connecting passages so effectively that a bale of silk was said to be able to travel from the beach to the top of the village without seeing daylight.

• It was once a more important port than Whitby on some early sea charts.

Larpool Viaduct

• Also known as the Esk Valley Viaduct, this 13-arch brick structure was completed in 1884 for the Scarborough & Whitby Railway.

• It is 915 feet (279 m) long and rises 120 feet (37 m) above the River Esk. It was built using around five million bricks.

• The railway closed in 1965; the viaduct now forms part of the popular Cinder Track walking and cycling route. It is even mentioned in Bram Stoker’s Dracula.

Whalebone Arch, Whitby

• The arch commemorates Whitby’s important 18th- and 19th-century whaling industry.

• Whale jawbones were traditionally displayed as a sign of a successful voyage. The current arch (the third to stand on this spot) frames a classic view of Whitby Abbey across the harbour.

• Earlier versions used real whale bones; more recent discussions have involved replacing them with durable replicas for ethical and practical reasons.

Final Thoughts

Even with a damp and foggy start, Day 18 delivered beautiful historic sites, charming coastal scenery, and a lovely sunset. Rievaulx Abbey was a real highlight, and the combination of Robin Hood’s Bay, the viaduct, and Whitby’s classic views made for a satisfying and relaxed day. One last fish-and-chips meal felt like the perfect send-off to England.

Next Up:

Our final touring day in England — exploring the atmospheric Gothic ruins of Whitby Abbey (the inspiration for Bram Stoker’s Dracula), a stop at the mysterious Rudston Monolith (the tallest megalith in the UK), and then the drive south toward the London area as we prepare for our adventures in Ireland.​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​

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Farewell Scotland & Hadrian’s Wall: Heading Back to England (Days 16–17)

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Introduction

After an incredible time in the Scottish Highlands, it was time to start heading south. Days 16 and 17 marked our farewell to Scotland and a return to England, with some powerful historic stops along the way. This stretch of the journey offers a perfect mix of scenic coastal views, world-class Roman ruins, and the charming seaside atmosphere of Whitby—ideal for anyone planning a Scotland-to-England road trip or exploring Hadrian’s Wall highlights.

Day 16: Leaving Scotland

This was a travel day as we drove south from Inverness. We didn’t have any major planned stops—no castles, abbeys or hikes—but we did pull over for a foggy photo at Sea View Point near Eyemouth. The mist over the water created a moody, atmospheric goodbye to Scotland. It felt bittersweet—we had seen so much, yet there was clearly still more to explore in the future.

Day 17: Hadrian’s Wall & Arrival in Whitby

Today we were on our way to Whitby, England. Along the way we stopped off at Chesters Roman Fort & Museum and Hadrian’s Wall, two amazingly beautiful sites chock full of ancient ruins, artifacts, and history. It’s hard to fathom life as it was nearly 2000 years ago. I personally have loved the architecture of the castles, churches, and abbeys—they make today’s buildings look like ugly, boring boxes in comparison.

Whitby is a cute little seaside town in North Yorkshire and is quite different from other places we’ve stayed. After arriving at our Airbnb we strolled downtown and along the docks to the Magpie Cafe, where we enjoyed a nice seafood dinner. We tried the crab bisque, fish pie topped with mashed potatoes and cheese, and a grilled fish medley—all delicious! We were so full and tired afterwards that we walked back to our apartment and were in bed before 10pm.

Helpful Tips for This Route

•  The English Heritage Pass works well for Hadrian’s Wall sites including Chesters Roman Fort & Museum—membership or a multi-day pass can pay for itself quickly if you’re visiting several properties.

•  Whitby is a popular town—book your accommodation in advance, especially in the warmer months or around peak events.

•  The seafood at Magpie Cafe is excellent, but expect a wait if you go during peak hours. Booking ahead is wise for the restaurant (there’s also a takeaway option next door); portions are generous.

•  Allow plenty of driving time from the Inverness area south—routes via the A1 or more scenic options can take 6–8+ hours depending on stops and traffic. Fuel up and check weather, as coastal fog and northern English weather can change quickly.

•  At Chesters, don’t miss the bath house and the museum; wear sturdy shoes as paths can be uneven. Parking is available (often refundable with entry). Combine with a short walk along nearby stretches of Hadrian’s Wall for the best experience.

•  Near Eyemouth / Sea View Point, keep an eye out for seals and consider a brief detour to the harbour or coastal path if time allows—it’s a quieter alternative to busier Borders spots.

•  Practical note: English Heritage sites often offer online booking discounts, and checking opening times in advance is essential as hours vary by season.

Fun Facts

Around Eyemouth / Sea View Point: The Berwickshire coast has a dramatic history. In October 1881, the Eyemouth Fishing Disaster claimed 129 local lives in a sudden storm (out of 189 total deaths along the coast), leaving many widows and children. Today you’ll find moving “Widows and Bairns” memorial sculptures along the shoreline. The area is also known for seals, seabirds, and earlier smuggling lore.

Hadrian’s Wall & Chesters Roman Fort: Hadrian’s Wall stretches about 73 miles (80 Roman miles) across northern England and was begun in AD 122 on the orders of Emperor Hadrian. It took roughly six years to build and once stood around 15 feet (4.5 m) high in places. Chesters Roman Fort (Roman name Cilurnum) was a cavalry fort built around AD 124 to house about 500 soldiers and their horses. It later became home to the Second Asturians, a unit from northern Spain. One of the standout features is the exceptionally well-preserved bath house beside the River North Tyne—among the best Roman military baths in Britain. When excavated in the 1880s, workers discovered the remains of 33 human skeletons (plus two horses and a dog) in or near the baths; the exact story behind them remains a mystery. The on-site Clayton Museum holds one of the finest collections of inscriptions and sculptures from the Wall.

Whitby & Magpie Cafe: Whitby is a classic North Yorkshire seaside town with a strong fishing heritage and a lively harbour atmosphere. The Magpie Café occupies an 18th-century merchant’s house (built around 1750) with historic links to the Scoresby whaling family and later used as a pilotage office. It has been a café/restaurant since the late 1930s and is renowned for fresh local seafood and classic fish and chips (often fried in traditional beef dripping).

Final Thoughts

These two days felt like a gentle transition. Leaving Scotland was a little sad, but Hadrian’s Wall and the cozy charm of Whitby gave us plenty to look forward to in the final stretch of our trip. The mix of Roman history and seaside atmosphere was the perfect bridge between Scotland and our last days in England. Whether you’re chasing ancient ruins, coastal views, or simply great seafood, this route delivers memorable moments.​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​

Next Up:

Our final full touring day in England, including the atmospheric Whitby Abbey and the Rudston Monolith (featured on Ancient Aliens).

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Epic Day on the Isle of Skye: Old Man of Storr, Fairy Glen & Eilean Donan (Day 15)

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Introduction

Day 15 was one of the biggest and most anticipated days of our entire trip — a full day exploring the Isle of Skye. We knew it would be long, so we set our alarms for 5am to get an early start.

Day 15: The Isle of Skye Adventure

The drive along Loch Ness in the early morning fog was atmospheric. We arrived at our first destination, The Old Man of Storr, just before 9am. This is the most popular hike on Skye for good reason. It’s a 3-mile loop with about 1,050 feet of elevation gain. The rock formation itself is 165 feet tall and legend says it’s the thumb of a giant buried beneath the mountain. The views from the top were incredible, though quite challenging — the photos don’t fully do it justice.

Next, we drove counter-clockwise along the coast and stopped at Kilt Rock and Mealt Falls. The waterfall cascading directly into the sea was dramatic. We also got a good view of the Quiraing area, though we were too tired to do that hike.

We cut across the island on a narrow single-lane road (very typical for Skye) and found a beautiful spot overlooking the harbor of Idrigill, Portree to enjoy the lunch we had packed.

Later, Jerry and I hiked around The Fairy Glen while Dave and Karen rested in the car. This smaller site has a whimsical, almost storybook feel with its rolling hills and winding paths.

Our final stop was Eilean Donan Castle — one of the most photographed castles in Scotland. It was blown up in the past and beautifully rebuilt between 1911 and 1936. While we couldn’t take photos inside, the exterior views were impressive and very romantic.

We had a very long but rewarding day. Back at our cottage we made Mexican omelettes, enjoyed some wine, and were in bed by 11pm, completely worn out.

Helpful Tips for Visiting the Isle of Skye

•  Start very early — the roads and popular spots get crowded quickly.

•  The single-lane roads with passing places take some getting used to.

•  Pack lunch and snacks — good food options are limited in some areas.

•  Check the weather forecast, as conditions can change fast on Skye.

•  Prioritize the hikes based on your energy level (Old Man of Storr is steep!).

•  Wear sturdy hiking boots for the Old Man of Storr — the path is rocky and steep in places.

•  Parking at major spots like the Old Man of Storr and Kilt Rock can fill up quickly (some have fees).

•  The Fairy Glen is a shorter, gentler walk — perfect when you need a break.

•  Bring layers and rain gear; Skye weather is famously unpredictable.

Fun Facts

Old Man of Storr

•  It forms part of an ancient volcanic plug and was shaped by one of Britain’s largest ancient landslides, creating the dramatic Trotternish Ridge.

•  In Gaelic it’s known as Bodach an Stòrr (“Old Man of the Storr”).

•  The rock spire itself was first successfully climbed only in 1955.

Kilt Rock and Mealt Falls

•  Kilt Rock gets its name from the striking hexagonal basalt columns that resemble the pleats of a traditional Scottish kilt.

•  Mealt Falls is one of the relatively rare waterfalls worldwide that plunge directly into the ocean.

•  Before modern navigation tools, these distinctive cliffs served as an important landmark for sailors.

Fairy Glen

•  The whimsical landscape of cone-shaped hills, knolls, and small lochans was formed by ancient landslides and erosion — it’s often described as a “mini-Quiraing.”

•  Despite the magical name (Bail nan Cnoc in Gaelic, meaning “village of the hills”), there aren’t specific ancient fairy legends tied to this exact spot — it simply feels enchanted!

•  Look out for the natural basalt outcrop that looks like a tiny crumbling castle. (Visitors sometimes create grass spirals, but it’s best not to, as it causes erosion.)

The Quiraing walk

•  The Quiraing is part of the same massive ancient landslip that created the Trotternish Ridge (one of the largest in Britain). It features otherworldly rock formations like “The Table” (a flat grassy plateau), “The Needle” (a sharp 120ft/37m pinnacle), and “The Prison” — all still slowly moving a few millimeters each year!

•  Its Gaelic name roughly means “the pillared or folded place.” The popular circuit walk is typically 4–6.5 km (2.5–4 miles) long with around 350–400m (1,150–1,300 ft) of elevation gain, taking 2–4 hours depending on your pace and how far you explore.

Eilean Donan Castle

•  Named after Saint Donnán, a 7th-century Celtic saint who may have established a religious site on the tidal island.

•  The romantic structure we see today is a careful 20th-century reconstruction carried out by Lieutenant Colonel John MacRae-Gilstrap, who used original stones wherever possible.

•  It sits where three sea lochs meet and has appeared in films like Highlander.

Final Thoughts

Skye lived up to all the hype. The dramatic landscapes, hikes, and castles made it feel like we were driving through a movie. It was exhausting but absolutely one of the highlights of our entire 3-week trip.

Next Up:

Our journey back south, saying goodbye to Scotland, crossing Hadrian’s Wall, and arriving in the charming seaside town of Whitby.

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A Relaxed Day Around Loch Ness: Urquhart Castle & Touchstone Maze (Day 14)

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Introduction

After several big driving and sightseeing days, we decided to take a slower pace on Day 14. We were based in a cottage just south of Inverness, which gave us a peaceful base to explore the Loch Ness area without rushing.

Day 14: Loch Ness & A More Relaxed Pace

We slept in a bit and took our time getting started. Our first stop was Urquhart Castle, beautifully situated right on the shores of Loch Ness. The ruins are impressive, and the views across the loch are exactly what you picture when you think of Scotland. Unfortunately, we did not spot Nessie — much to our disappointment!

Later, we drove a bit farther north to visit the Touchstone Maze. This is a more modern stone circle built in 1995, featuring 81 large rocks sourced from different quarries across Scotland. It’s a bit off the beaten path but worth the short walk. The setting was peaceful and the stones had a nice presence.

We returned to our cottage in the afternoon and cooked a comforting dinner of “Marry Me Chicken” with salad. These home-cooked evenings were becoming one of the highlights of the trip — relaxing, affordable, and a nice break from eating out.

Tips for a Loch Ness Day

•  Urquhart Castle is very popular and requires tickets — book online in advance for the best prices and to guarantee entry (around £14–16 for adults). Arrive early or later in the day to avoid the biggest crowds.

•  The Touchstone Maze is completely free and rarely crowded, making it a nice contrast to more famous (and ticketed) sites.

•  Bring binoculars if you’re hoping to spot Nessie (we had no luck!).

•  Having a kitchen in your accommodation makes it easy to have relaxed dinners after long days.

Fun Facts

•  Urquhart Castle dates back to the 13th century and was once one of Scotland’s largest castles. It changed hands repeatedly during the Wars of Scottish Independence, with control passing between Scots and English forces. In 1692, the last government troops deliberately blew up the gatehouse to prevent Jacobites from using it.

•  The first recorded “monster” sighting associated with Loch Ness dates to around AD 565, when St. Columba reportedly encountered a water beast attacking a swimmer and commanded it to retreat.

•  Loch Ness holds more fresh water than all the lakes in England and Wales combined. Its peat-stained waters stay around 5–6°C year-round, never freeze over, and create dark depths perfect for hiding mysteries.

•  The Touchstone Maze’s design incorporates astronomical alignments, including connections to the midsummer sunrise and northerly moonrise, blending geology, art, and ancient understandings of the cosmos.

Final Thoughts from Day 14

This was exactly the kind of day we needed. It was nice to slow down, enjoy beautiful scenery without a packed schedule, and recharge a little. Loch Ness and Urquhart Castle lived up to the hype, even without a monster sighting!​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​

Next Up:

Our biggest adventure yet — an early 5am start for a full day on the Isle of Skye, including the Old Man of Storr hike, Fairy Glen, and Eilean Donan Castle.

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Northeast Scotland Coast Drive: Arbroath Abbey, Dunnottar Castle & Stone Circles (Day 12)

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Introduction

On Day 12 we left Edinburgh and began our drive north and west toward Inverness. This was one of our favorite road trip days in Scotland, filled with dramatic coastal views and historic sites.

Day 12: Coastal Scotland Adventure

We started the day heading up the eastern coast. Our first stop was Arbroath Abbey, a towering medieval ruin. The red sandstone walls standing against the sky were quite striking.

Next, we visited Dunnottar Castle — hands down one of the most dramatic locations of the entire trip. The castle sits 160 feet up on cliffs overlooking the North Sea with crystal-clear water below. The views were breathtaking, and it’s easy to see why it has been used in so many films and photos. We spent a long time walking around and soaking in the scenery.

After a full morning of exploring, we stopped for an early dinner at The Shepherds Rest, enjoying burgers and fish & chips. We then made our way to East Aquhorthies Stone Circle. We were the only people there, which made it feel extra magical. The peaceful setting in the open countryside was a lovely contrast to some of the busier sites.

Helpful Tips for the Northeast Coast Drive

•  Dunnottar Castle is a must-visit — arrive with plenty of time to explore and take photos, as the steep path and cliffs require good footwear and caution, especially with wind or rain.

•  Check the weather before heading out, as coastal winds can be strong and change quickly.

•  The English Heritage Pass does not cover Scottish sites, so you’ll need the Historic Scotland Explorer Pass or pay individual entry fees (Dunnottar and Arbroath have reasonable separate tickets).

•  Bring layers — it can be quite windy along the coast, even on sunny days.

•  For stone circles like East Aquhorthies, wear sturdy shoes for uneven grassy terrain and consider a small donation if there’s an honesty box for road maintenance.

•  Plan your fuel and snacks, as services can be sparse between sites; pack water and binoculars for wildlife spotting along the cliffs.

Fun Facts

Banff (our stop for the night): This historic royal burgh on the northern coast dates back to at least the 12th century and was a busy trading port exporting salmon to Europe. Its name likely ties to Gaelic roots linked to a “holy woman,” reflected in the town’s coat of arms featuring the Virgin Mary. The area has deep maritime history, including one of the UK’s largest surviving ice houses used for salmon storage.

Final Thoughts

This day reminded us why Scotland’s northeast coast is so special. The combination of dramatic clifftop castles and quiet, ancient stone circles created a perfect balance. We arrived at our little flat in Banff (on the northern coast) tired but very happy with the day. It was one of those perfect road-trip days where history, scenery, and solitude all came together beautifully.​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​

Next Up:

Our final day on the northeast coast before arriving in Inverness, including Bow Fiddle Rock, Elgin Cathedral, Clava Cairns, and Culloden Battlefield. NEXT…

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First Full Day in Edinburgh: Royal Mile, Castle & Scottish Impressions (Day 10)

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We woke up on Day 10 to a view of Arthur’s Seat from our apartment window. After days of driving and exploring remote ruins, it felt wonderfully refreshing to be based in a vibrant city again. Scotland was already winning us over.

We began the morning with a gentle uphill walk along the Royal Mile to Edinburgh Castle for our 9:30am tour. Along the way, we passed the charming little 16th-century Queen Mary’s Bathhouse, a picturesque turreted building just outside the Palace of Holyroodhouse.

The castle itself felt more like a living museum than the ancient ruins we’d seen earlier in the trip, but its position high above the city delivered spectacular views. The cannon gunports offered perfect “framed” shots of the rooftops and spires below, and we were charmed by the historic Dog Cemetery—dating back to 1837—with its tiny headstones honoring soldiers’ and officers’ loyal dogs (and a few other pets).

After leaving the castle, we wandered down Cockburn Street and enjoyed a relaxed lunch of wine and charcuterie at a cozy spot. Feeling revived, we made one of the best decisions of the trip: hopping on a double-decker hop-on hop-off bus tour. It gave us an excellent overview of the city’s layout and helped us decide where to spend more time. After walking more than six miles already, the ride was a very welcome rest for our feet.

The bus route took us past several standout landmarks, including the towering Scott Monument and Calton Hill. We hopped off to explore the hill’s impressive monuments: the Nelson Monument, the Dugald Stewart Monument, and the unfinished Scottish National Monument.

We returned to our apartment in the late afternoon and cooked a simple but satisfying dinner—bunless burgers topped with cheddar, bacon, and eggs. Having a kitchen during this trip has been an absolute blessing after long days of sightseeing.

Practical Tips for Edinburgh

• Book Edinburgh Castle tickets in advance, especially for morning slots—they sell out quickly. (This destination is included with the Historic Scotland Explorer Pass.)

• Take a hop-on hop-off bus tour on your first day. It’s one of the smartest ways to get oriented.

• The Royal Mile has some steep sections—comfortable walking shoes are essential.

• Staying somewhere with a kitchen helps you balance restaurant meals, save money, and recharge after busy days.

Fun Facts

•  Arthur’s Seat is an extinct volcano that last erupted around 350 million years ago. At 251 meters (823 feet) tall, it offers some of the best views over Edinburgh. In 1836, boys discovered 17 mysterious miniature coffins containing tiny wooden figures in a cave on its slopes—their purpose is still unknown.

•  The Royal Mile is actually 1.07 miles long and follows the ridge of an ancient volcano, which explains its steep sections.

•  Queen Mary’s Bath House (16th century) is more likely a garden pavilion or summer house than an actual bathhouse. The story of Mary, Queen of Scots bathing in wine or goat’s milk here is a charming legend with no historical proof.

•  Edinburgh Castle has been besieged at least 26 times, making it one of the most attacked places in Britain. It sits atop an extinct volcano (Castle Rock). The cannon batteries and gunports in this area are part of the Argyle Battery and Half Moon Battery. This is also home to the famous One O’Clock Gun, which has been fired daily (except Sundays) at 1:00 pm since 1861 to help ships in the Firth of Forth set their clocks.

•  The Dog Cemetery dates to the 1840s and holds about 20 small headstones for officers’ pets and regimental mascots. The first burial was Fido in 1847; the dogs often accompanied soldiers on global campaigns. It’s viewable only from above to protect the site.

•  The Scott Monument is a 61-meter (200 ft) Gothic tower dedicated to Sir Walter Scott, the author of Ivanhoe and many other classics. It’s the second-largest monument to a writer in the world and features 68 statues of characters from his novels. Scott is depicted at the base with his beloved deerhound, Maida.

•  Calton Hill is another volcanic outcrop and part of Edinburgh’s UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its collection of monuments gives it a dramatic, almost Athenian feel—earning the city its nickname “Athens of the North.”

•  The Nelson Monument looks like an upturned telescope and honors Admiral Lord Nelson’s victory at the Battle of Trafalgar (1805). It once had a time ball that dropped at 1 pm to help ships synchronize clocks.

•  The Dugald Stewart Monument is an elegant circular temple honoring the Scottish Enlightenment philosopher. Its design by William Henry Playfair perfectly frames the city views and is one of the most photographed spots on the hill.

•  The Scottish National Monument was meant to be a full replica of the Parthenon in Athens to honor Scottish soldiers who died in the Napoleonic Wars. Funds ran out, leaving the dramatic unfinished “ruin” you see today—often called “Scotland’s Disgrace” or “Edinburgh’s Folly.

Final Thoughts from Our First Day in Scotland

Edinburgh felt alive, historic, and full of character. The blend of medieval streets, grand architecture, and energetic city buzz made us fall in love with Scotland almost instantly. We couldn’t wait to explore more of the capital and beyond in the coming days.

Next Up:

Day trips from Edinburgh including The Kelpies (the giant horse sculptures), the Falkirk Wheel, and the Wallace Monument — plus more evening exploring in the city. NEXT…

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Liverpool, Chester Walls & Driving into Scotland (Days 7–9)

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Introduction

After our Stonehenge and Bath adventures, we continued heading north. Days 7 through 9 were a nice mix of a fun music detour, deep history in Chester, and our official crossing into Scotland.

Day 7: Liverpool Stop & Arrival in Chester

We left Bristol with some extra time, so we decided to make a detour to Liverpool to visit The Cavern Club — the famous underground venue where The Beatles got their start. The club is small, dark, and full of history. We stayed for a while, had a beer, and listened to a local musician. It was a fun, lighter stop that broke up all the historic sites we’d been visiting.

From Liverpool, we continued on to Chester and checked into our Airbnb right in the heart of the city. Our accommodations were wonderful—definitely a step up from the last two places. It was a good reminder that you can’t always trust the pictures on the Airbnb site; it’s worth reading the reviews carefully and looking very closely at the photos before booking.

After settling in, we took a short evening walk to get our first glimpse of the famous city walls.​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​

Day 8: Exploring Chester

The next day we fully explored Chester. We walked the entire Chester City Walls — the oldest, longest, and most complete Roman walls in Britain (nearly 2,000 years old and 1.8 miles long). The views from the top over the city were beautiful and really brought the history to life.

We also wandered through the Roman Gardens, visited the amphitheater remains, and explored Chester Cathedral. We ended up spending quite a bit of time there, slowly wandering through the nave and side chapels while marveling over the incredibly detailed carvings — the stonework was so intricate, with everything from delicate foliage to biblical scenes and grotesque gargoyles. The cathedral’s towering ceilings, intricate carvings, and stunning stained glass windows were truly impressive. We finished the afternoon with some people-watching and a relaxing glass of wine on a sunny patio before heading back to our Airbnb.

Day 9: Driving from Chester into Scotland

On Day 9 we left Chester around 9am for the 4.5-hour drive to Edinburgh. We made several enjoyable stops along the way:

•  Brougham Castle – A 13th-century ruin where we climbed the steep spiral staircase for great views.

•  Mayburgh Henge – A stone circle where Jerry and Dave had a spontaneous moment — they took off their shirts and “frolicked” to the remaining stone while Karen and I laughed from the bank. It was one of the funniest moments of the trip!

•  Arthur’s Round Table and Penrith Castle – Quick stops that added to the scenic drive.

The landscape became more dramatic as we crossed into Scotland. It felt like a real milestone in our journey.

Tips for These Days

•  The Cavern Club is worth a stop if you have any interest in The Beatles.

•  Chester is very walkable — plan at least half a day for the walls and cathedral.

•  The drive from Chester to Edinburgh is pleasant with good stops. Build in extra time if you enjoy ruins and stone circles.

Fun Facts About Our Stops

Here are some interesting tidbits about the places we visited — they added even more appreciation for the history along the way!

•  The Cavern Club, Liverpool: This legendary underground venue opened in 1957 as a jazz club but became the epicenter of the British rock scene. The Beatles performed here an incredible 292 times between 1961 and 1963. It’s small, sweaty, and atmospheric — exactly as it was in the early days, with the original stage still in use.

•  Chester City Walls: These are Britain’s most complete circuit of ancient city walls and the only ones in the country that still form a full, unbroken loop around the city. In the 18th century, they stopped being used for defense and were turned into a fashionable public walkway — complete with steps added for easier strolling and even a few quirky traditions like the “Wishing Steps,” where locals say if you can run up and down without taking a breath, your wish will come true!

•  Brougham Castle: Built in the early 13th century by Robert de Vieuxpont on the site of a Roman fort (Brocavum). It was later restored in the 17th century by the formidable Lady Anne Clifford, who loved it so much that she died there. Locals once believed a giant named Turquin lived in the ruins — a legend possibly linked to Arthurian tales of Sir Lancelot!

•  Mayburgh Henge: This massive Neolithic henge (about 4,500 years old) was built using an estimated 20,000 tons of river cobbles from the nearby River Eamont — no ditch, just an enormous stone bank up to 15 feet high. Only one giant standing stone remains in the center (there were once several). It’s one of the most impressive and least-visited prehistoric monuments in Britain.

•  Arthur’s Round Table: Despite the name, this Neolithic henge (around 2000 BC) has nothing to do with King Arthur — the association came centuries later. It’s a large circular earthwork with banks and ditches, located just 400 meters from Mayburgh Henge. In the 19th century, a local pub owner even turned part of it into a tea garden!

•  Penrith Castle: Constructed in the late 14th century in distinctive red sandstone to defend against Scottish raids. It later became a residence for Richard, Duke of Gloucester (the future King Richard III). The ruins sit right in the middle of a peaceful park today, making for a lovely quick stop.

These little details made the drive feel like a journey through thousands of years of history in just one day!

Final Thoughts

These three days offered a great balance — music nostalgia in Liverpool, rich history in Chester, and the excitement of crossing into Scotland. The spontaneous moments (especially at Mayburgh Henge) made the journey even more enjoyable.

Next Up:

Our first full day in Edinburgh — walking the Royal Mile and visiting Edinburgh Castle. NEXT…

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English Heritage Castles & Southeast Coast Adventure: Dover, Deal & More (Day 4)

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A Peaceful Morning Surprise

As I was folding laundry in the early hours of the morning, whilst everyone else was still getting their beauty sleep, I caught a glimpse of two small deer outside our front window. They scampered in and out so quickly I was lucky to get a shot! (Check it out below.)

Heading to the Southeast Coast

With our English Heritage Pass ready to go, we drove toward the southeast coast — only about 20 miles from France at its closest point. The area feels steeped in history, and we were excited to pack in as many sites as possible.

Our Historic Sites

Here’s where the day took us: Click on the links to get the full history cited on the English Heritage site.

•  Knights Templar Church Ruins — A hauntingly peaceful start to our day. These atmospheric roofless stone walls, dating from the late 12th century, stand quietly in an open field. Believed to have served as both a chapel and a lookout point for the mysterious Knights Templar, the ruins have an almost magical, otherworldly feel — perfect for imagining medieval knights and centuries of silent history.

•  Dover Castle — The star of the day! Perched dramatically on the white cliffs overlooking the Channel, this mighty fortress has guarded England for over 2,000 years.

We explored the towering keep, the fascinating secret tunnels used during the Dunkirk evacuation, and the remarkable 2,000-year-old Roman lighthouse — one of the oldest standing buildings in Britain. Absolutely breathtaking views and history at every turn.

•  Walmer Castle — A beautiful contrast to the more military forts, Walmer Castle was originally built as one of Henry VIII’s coastal defences but later became the official residence of the Lord Warden of the Cinque Ports.

What we loved most were its stunning gardens — peaceful, colourful, and perfectly manicured. From formal beds and a working kitchen garden to the famous Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother’s Garden with its rose-filled parterres, the grounds feel like a tranquil English country estate. After a full day of exploring stone ruins and tunnels, these lush gardens were the perfect peaceful finale.

•  Deal Castle — Henry VIII’s distinctive circular artillery fort — we loved exploring “The Rounds” — the atmospheric, narrow tunnels built within the thickness of the outer walls. Walking round and round in this dim, circular passage really brought the castle’s defensive purpose to life as you imagine soldiers moving quickly to any threat.

•  Richborough Roman Fort & Amphitheater — One of Britain’s most important Roman sites — and the very spot where the Romans first landed in AD 43 during Emperor Claudius’s massive invasion.

We stood on the same ground where nearly 40,000 Roman soldiers came ashore nearly 2,000 years ago. The huge defensive walls, ditches, and the remains of the amphitheatre still visible in the landscape made history feel incredibly alive. A powerful and humbling place.

•  St. Augustine’s Cross — A peaceful and powerful finale to our history-filled day. This tall stone cross marks the spot where St. Augustine is believed to have landed in 597 AD, bringing Christianity to England.

Standing beside it, we reflected on how one mission changed the course of British history forever. Simple, moving, and deeply meaningful.

By the end of the day we’d walked nearly 5 miles. We were tired but completely thrilled with everything we’d seen.

Evening Wind-Down

We headed back to Ide Hill and stopped once again at The King’s Head — this time for proper fish & chips. (The beef stroganoff from our first night there had been so good that we were excited to try another classic!) Back at our cozy Airbnb, we opened wine, put on some music, and recapped the day’s adventures. It was the perfect way to wrap up our wonderful Kent chapter.

Fun Facts from Day 4

•  The Knights Templar Church ruins date to the late 12th century and may have served as both a chapel and a lookout point for the mysterious Knights Templar.

•  Dover Castle has been a defensive stronghold for over 2,000 years and includes one of the oldest standing buildings in Britain — a Roman lighthouse from the 2nd century AD.

•  Walmer Castle later became the official residence of the Lord Warden of the Cinque Ports. The Duke of Wellington died here in 1852, and his modest room is still preserved with his original armchair and boots.

•  Deal Castle’s unique circular “Tudor rose” design with six bastions was part of Henry VIII’s coastal defense system built in 1539–1540.

•  Richborough Roman Fort is believed to be the landing site of Emperor Claudius’s massive invasion fleet (around 40,000 soldiers) in AD 43.

•  St. Augustine’s Cross commemorates the 597 AD landing of St. Augustine, whose mission helped convert the Anglo-Saxons and shape England’s Christian history.

Final Thoughts from Day 4

This day perfectly captured the incredible variety of English history — from ancient Romans and medieval knights to Tudor kings and early Christian roots — all in one corner of the country. Sharing it with Jerry, Dave, and Karen made it even more memorable. A wonderful finale to our peaceful time in Kent.

Next Up:

We leave Kent and head toward Portsmouth to see the historic HMS Victory, followed by a magical sunrise at Stonehenge! NEXT…

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Arrival in Kent: Jet Lag, London Eye & First Impressions of England (Days 1-3)

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Introduction

In late April 2024, my husband Jerry and I, along with our dear friends Dave and Karen, set off on a 25-day adventure through England, Scotland, and Ireland. After months of planning (and more than a few FaceTime chats), we were excited to finally trade our everyday routines for castles, winding countryside lanes, and plenty of shared discoveries.

Jerry and I flew from Denver, while Dave and Karen flew in from Los Angeles. We met up at Heathrow Airport, bleary-eyed but buzzing with excitement. After a long 9-hour flight and wrestling with the 7-hour time difference, we collected our rental car and hit the road.

The rental car pickup provided our first “we’re not in Colorado anymore” moment. As we merged onto the roadway, we suddenly weren’t sure if the speed limit signs were in miles per hour or kilometers per hour. (The UK uses the metric system, right?!) We spent the first few minutes doing mental math and second-guessing every sign until we realized, with a mix of relief and laughter, that the roads in Britain still use good old miles. Classic rookie travelers — we were already off to a memorable start!

Within hours, England began working its magic on us. The countryside unfolded like a storybook, and we quickly realized this trip was going to be even better than we had imagined.

Day 1: Touchdown & The Drive to Ide Hill

After hitting the road, our first practical stop was a quick detour to Costco for supplies. Jet-lagged but determined, we stocked up on snacks, breakfast essentials, and a few familiar comforts (wine) to ease us into the trip.

Jerry and Dave took on all the driving duties for the entire 25 days, while Karen and I helped handle navigation. We’d all agreed beforehand that we would constantly remind the driver to “stay left,” which helped keep us on the correct (well… the wrong) side of the road while smoothly (mostly) navigating the endless roundabouts. It was definitely an adjustment at first!

The drive south to our charming Airbnb in Ide Hill, Kent, was both beautiful and a little nerve-wracking. Those narrow country lanes lined with tall hedgerows were incredibly picturesque, and we soaked in our first real views of the classic English countryside. We were all relieved and excited when we finally pulled up to our cozy cottage-style home. It was perfect for the four of us, with lovely views from every window.

That evening we went to The King’s Head pub for dinner. We all tried the beef stroganoff, which was rich and comforting after our long travel day. Our server, Sophie, was wonderfully friendly and gave us great tips for catching the train into London the next day. Exhausted but happy, we were all tucked into bed by 8pm.

Day 2: Our First London Day Trip

Jet lag hit us hard — Jerry and I woke up at 3am! After making coffee, we took a lovely walk through a nearby forest as the sun came up. Once everyone was ready, we drove to the train station in Sevenoaks and caught a train into London.

We had a mostly sunny day, which was a nice surprise. We started with the Tower of London and walked across Tower Bridge, where the glass floor was both exciting and a little scary. We hopped on a classic red double-decker bus, then stopped at Brewdog Brewery for a refreshing mango sour while waiting for our next activity.

We bought our London Eye tickets online the same day after checking the weather forecast. We lucked out with beautiful clear skies, and the 360° views from the top were spectacular. We could clearly see the Shard, Big Ben, the Walkie Talkie building, and so much of London’s skyline.

We ended the day walking through the Graffiti Tunnel before taking the train back to Ide Hill. A simple “wine dinner” (charcuterie, cheeses, and good wine) was the perfect way to end the day.

Day 3: More London Exploring

We woke to classic English fog and a very plump pheasant outside our window — such a quintessential English moment! After coffee, we headed back into London.

We walked past Big Ben, Westminster Abbey, through St. James’s Park, and over to Buckingham Palace. We stopped for a drink at the Golden Lion pub before continuing to Piccadilly Circus, where we enjoyed traditional fish & chips at Mr. Fogg’s Tavern. We finished at Trafalgar Square before returning to Kent.

That evening we had sourdough crust pizza at The Pheasant Plucker along with more wine and music. These relaxed evenings with our friends quickly became some of my favorite memories.

Helpful Tips from Our First Days

•  English Heritage Pass: This was one of our smartest purchases. With so many castles and historic sites on our itinerary, it provided free entry to many of them and saved us a nice chunk of money throughout the trip.

•  Trains from smaller towns: Trains from places like Sevenoaks into London were wonderfully easy and efficient—perfect for quick city escapes without the stress of driving.

•  London Eye tickets: We bought ours online the same day after checking the weather forecast. We were lucky with mostly sunny skies during our visit, which made the views absolutely spectacular.

Fun Facts from Our First Days in Kent & London

•  Those iconic tall hedgerows lining the narrow country lanes aren’t just pretty — many are hundreds of years old (some over 800 years!) and were originally planted as living fences to keep livestock in and mark property boundaries. They’re so valuable that locals actually warned us: in a scrape on those tiny roads, you’d almost rather hit another car than plow through one of these protected “living walls”!

•  Ide Hill sits on one of the highest points in Kent, giving our cozy Airbnb those stunning panoramic views over the Weald below. The village name dates all the way back to 1250, originally recorded as “Edythehelle” — basically “Edith’s Hill.” It’s in an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, so those storybook scenes from every window were the real deal.

•  The King’s Head pub in Bessels Green has that welcoming village-pub charm for a reason — many pubs with this name trace their roots back to the reign of Henry VIII. Our friendly server Sophie felt like a perfect introduction to British hospitality.

•  The London Eye isn’t technically a Ferris wheel. It’s the world’s tallest cantilevered observation wheel (supported on only one side). It was originally built as a temporary attraction for the millennium celebrations in 2000, but it proved so popular that they decided to keep it permanently. Bonus: there’s no capsule #13 because of superstition!

Final Thoughts

Our first three days nailed the perfect travel rhythm right from the start. We bounced between proper London sightseeing (the kind that makes your feet ache in the best way) and quiet countryside evenings, and somehow it all felt just right. Jet lag? Handled. Roundabouts? Survived. By the end of those early days, the four of us — Jerry, Dave, Karen, and me — were already laughing about our rookie moments and completely hooked on the adventure ahead.

Up Next:

Our full-day English Heritage adventure visiting multiple castles and historic sites along England’s southeast coast, including the impressive Dover Castle! NEXT…

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3 Weeks in England, Scotland & Ireland: Our 2024 Vacation Recap (April 28-May23)

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Introduction

In late April and May of 2024, my husband Jerry and I, along with our dear friends Dave and Karen, spent 25 wonderful days traveling through England, Scotland, and Ireland. It was a classic multi-country vacation filled with history, stunning landscapes, great food, and plenty of laughs.

Trip Overview

Route: Kent → Southern & Central England → Scotland (Edinburgh & Highlands) → Ireland (Bray & Dublin area)

Travel Style: Mostly rental cars, with trains for city day trips and one short flight between England and Ireland.

We stayed in AirBnBs and cottages, cooked many meals together, and enjoyed the freedom of exploring at our own pace.

Our Route at a Glance

•  Days 1–4: Kent countryside base + London day trips

•  Days 5–9: Southern & Central England → Liverpool → Chester → drive into Scotland

•  Days 10–15: Edinburgh + Scottish Highlands & Isle of Skye

•  Days 16–19: Farewell to Scotland → Hadrian’s Wall → Whitby & Yorkshire Coast

•  Days 20–25: Ireland (Bray base + Dublin + Glendalough & Wicklow Mountains)

Top Highlights

•  Sunrise inside the Stonehenge inner circle

•  Dramatic clifftop Dunnottar Castle

•  The challenging but rewarding Old Man of Storr hike on Skye

•  Foggy, atmospheric Whitby Abbey (Dracula vibes)

•  Celebrating our 36th anniversary in Dublin with Guinness and city views

•  Newgrange, Glendalough, and the scenic Sally Gap drive

What We Learned & Tips

•  Traveling with close friends enhanced the experience — shared laughs, driving, and costs made everything better.

•  The English Heritage Pass (England) and Historic Scotland Explorer Pass were excellent investments.

•  Bring excellent waterproof shoes — even in late April/early May, the ground can be wet at many outdoor sites.

•  Several sites we visited (including Rudston Monolith) have appeared on the History Channel’s Ancient Aliens, which added extra fun for us.

The Full Series

I’m sharing our complete trip in individual detailed posts. Here’s the lineup (new posts added weekly):

I’ll update the links as each post goes live.

Final Thoughts

This trip reminded us why we love traveling — the shared experiences, the unexpected moments, and the beauty of seeing the world with people you love. England, Scotland, and Ireland each have their own special charm, and we’re already talking about going back to see more of Ireland.
Would we do it again? Absolutely.

Have you traveled with friends or celebrated a big anniversary on a trip?

I’d love to hear your experiences or recommendations in the comments!

Planning Your Own UK & Ireland Adventure

If this three-week journey through England, Scotland, and Ireland has inspired you to plan a similar trip, GoWithGuide is an excellent way to make it smooth and memorable. Their local expert guides can create private, customizable tours tailored to your interests — whether you’re exploring historic cities in England, the Highlands of Scotland, or the stunning landscapes and culture of Ireland.

For England & Scotland (UK):
Book Private Tours in England & Scotland with GoWithGuide →

For Ireland:
Book Private Tours in Ireland with GoWithGuide →

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