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Stonehenge at Sunrise, Avebury & Bath: A Magical Day in Southern England (Days 5–6)

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Introduction

After our busy castle day in Kent, we continued our journey westward. Days 5 and 6 turned out to be some of the most memorable of the entire trip — featuring an extremely early morning at Stonehenge, ancient stone circles, and the beautiful city of Bath.

Day 5: Portsmouth, HMS Victory & Moving Toward Stonehenge

Today we drove to Portsmouth so Dave could visit HMS Victory. As a huge military history buff who had been there decades earlier, he specifically chose this stop. The ship is currently under restoration but we were able to do the tour and hear the stories of its glory days and of the sacrifices that were made along the way. Here’s a bit of her story:

HMS Victory, Lord Nelson’s famous flagship at the Battle of Trafalgar, is the world’s oldest commissioned naval vessel. Still in active service with the Royal Navy after more than 260 years, she serves as the flagship of the First Sea Lord and welcomes visitors at Portsmouth Historic Dockyard.

Built between 1759 and 1765, she consumed around 6,000 trees—mostly oak—equivalent to 60 acres of woodland. Though a massive 104-gun first-rate ship, Victory was surprisingly fast, reaching 11 knots under sail. Her hull was later copper-sheathed to protect against shipworms, and sailors aboard drank beer or wine instead of water, which spoiled too quickly. The name “Victory” even carried superstition, as the previous ship with that name had sunk with all hands.

A veteran of the American War of Independence, French Revolutionary Wars, and Napoleonic Wars, she fought at Ushant, Cape St. Vincent, and Trafalgar in 1805, where she lost 57 killed and 102 wounded—including Nelson. Today, very little of her original 1765 timber remains due to constant restoration. Well worth a visit if you’re in Portsmouth!​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​

Afterwards we drove to Freemantle to gather with Dave’s cousin Blaine and his family for a phenomenal feast of Indian cuisine at Coriander Lounge. Finally, we checked into our AirBnB and turned in early since we had an insanely early booking for Stonehenge.

Day 6: Stonehenge at Sunrise & Avebury

3am comes early when you have a 5:30 reservation for the inner circle tour at Stonehenge!!! We arrived in Freemantle last night to find our AirBnB was not as advertised. When we woke up we made the snap decision to pack up and take everything with us and find another place to stay that was closer to our next destination in Chester. We made it out quickly and arrived on time for our Stonehenge tour.

The morning fog gave a perfect mystical vibe to the stones. Our guide, Chris, was really funny and knowledgeable! As he gave his instructions on visitor guidelines he “requested” that we refrain from touching, hugging, licking, or kissing the stones and that everyone please keep their clothes on. As the tour group gave a chuckle he said, “Oh, you laugh…”, because apparently people have to be told this. He also informed us that all these actions are a criminal offense that could land us in prison! Yikes! We spent close to an hour examining the site and asking questions before moving along to our next stop, Avebury Henge and Stone Circles.

This was a self-guided tour through pastures filled with large standing stones, sheep, and lots of sheep sh**! Watch your step!!! You may even want to wear galoshes. The early morning light bathed the countryside making it look like a painting. It was perfect! Check out the pics below.

Bath & Bristol

Next stop, Bath. Along the way we stopped at a cafe for coffee and a bite and arrived to find the city bustling with people and street performers. Bath Abbey towered above as we walked along the River Avon toward Pulteney Bridge and found ourselves at Thai Weir where we ordered a bottle of wine to enjoy on the balcony as we did some people watching and marveled at our surroundings. Another beautiful day in England!

We found a place to stay in Bristol, made ourselves some dinner and hit the hay by 9pm after our long day.

Tips for Stonehenge & This Route

•  Book your Stonehenge Inner Circle experience well ahead of time. These exclusive sunrise or sunset tours (which let you walk among the stones) are very limited and sell out months in advance — catching the sunrise there feels truly magical. Note that the English Heritage Pass covers standard entry but not these special timed access tickets, which must be booked separately.

•  Don’t skip Avebury. It’s completely free to visit, far less crowded than Stonehenge, and absolutely worth adding to your itinerary. Plus, you can lick, hug, and kiss the stones all you want!

Fun Facts for these sites.

Stonehenge

•  Builders transported some bluestones over 240 km (150 miles) from Wales — without wheels or modern tools.

•  The largest sarsen stones weigh about 25 tons each (as heavy as four African elephants).

•  The site aligns perfectly with the summer solstice sunrise and construction spanned over 1,000 years, starting around 5,000 years ago.

Avebury

•  It features the largest stone circle in Britain (originally about 100 stones) and shares the same UNESCO World Heritage Site listing as Stonehenge.

•  Built roughly 4,600 years ago, the henge’s ditch and bank actually enclose part of the modern village.

•  Unlike Stonehenge, you can wander freely among the stones for a more intimate prehistoric experience.

Bath

•  The Romans called it Aquae Sulis and developed grand baths around the natural hot springs.

•  Jane Austen lived in Bath and drew inspiration for novels like Northanger Abbey and Persuasion.

•  The entire city center is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, famous for its elegant Georgian architecture including the Royal Crescent.

Final Thoughts

These two days had such a great mix of history, scenery, and spontaneity. From standing among ancient stones at sunrise to enjoying wine with a view in Bath, it reminded us why we love these kinds of trips. The early wake-up was tough, but moments like these make it all worthwhile.

Next Up:

Our drive north to Chester, a surprise stop in Liverpool at The Cavern Club, and our first full day walking the ancient walls of Chester. NEXT…

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Experiencing the Labor Day Lift Off Balloon Festival

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We finally made it to our first balloon festival – The Labor Day Lift Off in Colorado Springs, just 80 miles from our home in Arvada. The weather app kept threatening 50-60% chance of rain, but we were all in. I’d booked the hotel back in June (non-refundable, of course), and after years of missing weekend fun because we’re musicians who work most Friday and Saturday nights, we weren’t letting anything stop us.

Most balloon festivals are usually held on Saturday and Sunday mornings. Going to bed at 2 or 3am and getting up to drive somewhere to see balloons take off at 7am does not work for us. Luckily the Labor Day Lift Off was scheduled for Saturday through Monday. Our plan was to go Sunday night for The Glow,  get up Monday for the Lift Off, and head home.

When we left for Colorado Springs on Sunday the chance of rain had gone down but the wind was such that the balloons were not able to take flight as planned. Still, we were determined to make a weekend out of it.

As we neared the city limits, just a quarter mile from the North Academy boulevard exit, our Dodge Durango suddenly died! My husband, Jerry, managed to pull over to the far right side of the freeway as we contemplated calling for a tow truck. Unfortunately, our insurance didn’t cover it. We determined that since we were situated on a slight hill, we would at least try to coast to the top of the exit and away from the majority of the traffic.

As we approached the exit the light turned green which we took as a sign to keep moving. Without power steering, Jerry muscled the car through the light and over the freeway to the next red light. Here we had to stop but were still on a downward hill and figured we could coast to a nearby parking lot from there. As we started looking for just the right place to pull out we saw a Midas sign. We pulled in and saw that it said Auto Care Experts. What are the chances!

We were thrilled. Here it is 3:30pm Sunday afternoon of Labor Day weekend, and they were open until 4:00pm. We were able to have them take a quick look at the car before they closed but they said they wouldn’t be able to get to it until Tuesday morning.

Stranded:

Still 10 miles from The Mining Exchange, our hotel in downtown Colorado Springs, we called for an Uber to take us the rest of the way. If you’re going to get stranded, this is where you want to do it! The hotel is beautiful, the rooms are very nice, comfortable, and right in the heart of downtown. There are plenty of restaurants and shops all within walking distance and we were able to walk to the balloon festival in Memorial park a mile and a half away.

The Glow:

After dinner at the Springs Orleans restaurant we made our way to the festival. It was still light out and we had fun watching all the crews preparing for that evenings show. As the sun went down the pilots fired up the burners and made their balloons glow. This experience was an extra added bonus because we didn’t realize it was a “thing”. Needless to say we were pleasantly surprised.

Lift Off:

Monday morning came quickly. We have been night people for so many years that 6am feels like the middle of the night! Seeing the balloons lift off was our only incentive for getting up and making the mile and a half walk back to the park again.

We arrived just as the balloonists were starting to fill their balloons. One by one they ascended into the sky. After gawking at the them like kids in a toy store for two hours we headed back to the Mining Exchange where we were able to extend our stay for an extra day.

That evening, rather than hang out at the hotel, we had dinner at Jack Quinn’s and headed to the theater to check out the newest Mission Impossible movie.

The Finale:

Tuesday morning as we waited for the call from the repair shop, we had breakfast, took in some sights downtown, and went to the Pioneers Museum. This was certainly a classic case of turning lemons into lemonade. I highly recommend booking a getaway in Colorado Springs. There are so many things to do and see. You won’t be disappointed.

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Booking Your Stay at The Mining Exchange

I mentioned The Mining Exchange in this post because it’s a fantastic historic hotel with great character. If you’re planning a trip and want to stay there (or check similar options in the area), you can book directly through Expedia.

Book The Mining Exchange on Expedia →

This is an affiliate link. If you book through it, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. Thank you for supporting the blog!

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Lake Powell – There’s a song in there somewhere

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For the past several summers my husband, Jerry, and I have vacationed in Lake Havasu, Arizona with our best friends, Dave and Karen.  But, in 2016 we were all invited to be part of a group embarking on a week-long houseboat trip at Lake Powell. Our group of eight included my husband and I, Dave and Karen, Ray and Vera (the couple with the houseboat timeshare), their young adult son, Clayton, and Jill, the mother-in-law of Dave and Karen’s son. Oddly enough, the only people who knew everyone on the trip, were Dave and Karen. The rest of us were meeting each other for the first time.

A panoramic shot of red rock landscape and Lake Powell in Utah

Coming together:

We all first came together in Page, Arizona, from different parts of the country. Dave and Karen are from Pasadena, California but had flown to Denver to make the drive out with us. Ray, Vera and Clayton drove from Sacramento, California. And Jill flew down from Portland, Oregon.

The plan:

As you can imagine, getting eight people organized and in sync might be a challenge. But, there was a plan! Ray and Vera have been doing these Lake Powell trips for several years already and have a checklist. It explains everything, from what to do in an emergency, to what everyone’s duties and responsibilities would be during the trip. “Uncle” Ray was our Captain and called all the shots where running the boat was concerned. His first mate, Vera, kept everyone in line as far as keeping our quarters in “ship-shape”.

Sharing is caring:

One of the main things we all shared in was the grocery shopping, meal prep and clean up. Each couple, or person, was to plan and prepare dinner for at least one of the nights aboard. I actually loved this because the only thing better than cooking for friends, is sitting back and letting them cook for me! During the six nights on board we had quite the variety of cuisine; grilled salmon, tri-tip, spicy grilled chicken, steak salad, Jamaican chicken, and turkey tacos; it was pretty gourmet. Of course our drink selection always complimented our dinner menu. Margaritas, fruity rum drinks, beer and of course wine.

Our fellow traveler, Jill, actually owns Methven Family Vineyards in Dayton, Oregon and managed to bring along a case of her various wines. Whether you are a “wine snob” or someone who just appreciates a nice bottle of wine, you have to check these out!

Two red and one blu jet ski perched on the top deck of a houseboat at Lake Powell

Another responsibility was helping moor the houseboat. Apparently, digging the holes to sink the anchors in, is a lot of work! Between that, a ski boat, and three personal watercraft, there was a lot of cooperation and coordination needed.

Exploring Lake Powell:

As I mentioned before, Ray and Vera have been coming to Lake Powell for several years. Therefore, they know a lot of great places to see and explore. This was fortunate for us because it was our first time there. At 254 square miles it is much larger than the 30 square miles we were used to at Lake Havasu!

Cookie Jar Butte:

On our first day at the lake we went out and found a spot to “park” for the week and got settled in. After all the work was done we hopped in the ski boat and our tour guide, Ray, took us to Cookie Jar Butte. This particular landmark is a big pillar looking rock formation with a small ball-like knob on top which from a distance resembles a cookie jar. We spent the better part of the afternoon hiking up and exploring the area. Afterward we headed back in to prepare and enjoy the first of our group dinners together.

Labyrinth Canyon:
Water carved red canyon walls with a rocky bottom at Lake Powell

Day two was probably my personal favorite of all the sites we saw. We took the ski boat and a couple of jet skis and headed for Labyrinth Canyon. The lake was down by 17 feet and made hiking through this narrow maze of sculpted canyons possible. I wasn’t the only one utterly fascinated by how the water had carved these beautiful walls of red rock.

After our hike we found a nice beach area to explore and have lunch. Meanwhile, some of our crew had fun zipping around the glassy lake on jet skis before we had to head back to the houseboat. They really got a kick out of the narrow canyons where the water was so smooth it felt like they were flying through the air. This illusion was caused by the reflection of the sky and the canyon walls in the water. They dubbed these the “flying canyons”.

That evening, while waiting for dinner, we broke out the acoustic guitars, cajon, and harmonica to perform some tunes. It was then that we accidentally came up with an idea for an original song. As you might have guessed already, the title of the song is “There’s a Song In There Somewhere”. We spent the next few days coming up with lyrics inspired by the experiences we were having during the trip.

Background:

Just a little back-story; Ray and Vera have a tradition of coming up with a catch phrase for each of their trips to Lake Powell. It’s something that ends up getting repeated throughout the week. It may start out unintentionally but ends up being used with reckless abandon. This trip was no different. “There’s a song in there somewhere” quickly became our go-to saying about everything that happened during our week together.

Lake Hazards:

Day three was quite the adventure. We started out by taking the boat and jet skis out for more exploring. This time we went to a huge natural amphitheater. It was so big that our boat was dwarfed by it. After hiking around there for a while we headed back out on the lake. Not long afterward we came across a good-sized boat stuck on a rock. It was teetering there like a seesaw but unable to move off. The rock itself was a couple of feet under water, just enough to not be visible from the surface.

The Rescue:
A large boat stuck on a rock sitting below the surface at Lake Powell

As we approached the boat we saw there were 3 people aboard. The two men and one woman had been out there for over 24 hours waiting for help. Naturally, we decided we were going to be the ones to get these folks out of this desperate situation.

We first tried lifting the boat off the rock by hand. When that didn’t work, we tried putting big tubes underneath the hull and inflating them to bring it higher on the water. After almost two hours of trying everything we could think of we finally hooked a rope to the front of their boat and literally twisted it off the rock by pulling it with ours. Once free from the rock we had them follow us back to camp to make sure they were going to be alright.

That evening, while everyone was winding down at the campfire after dinner, Vera and I set up our cameras and took photos of the Milky Way. This was actually my first attempt at night photography and I was very grateful that Vera was there to give me some of her pro tips.

Rainbow Bridge:
A photo of two couples posing together in front of Rainbow Bridge National Monument

We began day four by going to Dangling Rope marina before moving on to Rainbow Bridge National Monument. This is a spectacular arch nestled in at the base of Navajo Mountain and held sacred by the Native Americans in that area. The monument itself is about a one mile hike from the boat dock depending on the level of the lake. We, however, continued on past Rainbow Bridge to hike another mile or so to an area with gigantic overhanging cliffs.

After arriving back at the houseboat, Ray, Clayton, Jerry, and Karen decided they wanted to do some wake boarding before dinner. It was a great day for it as the water was fairly calm and smooth. Clayton showed off his skill at catching air while Ray just cruised along like it was the easiest thing in the world. Jerry and Karen, though less experienced, did great too.

Cruisin’:
A very red and orange sunset reflecting off the water at Lake Powell

On day five we went exploring once again. It was fun to just cruise around looking for new points of interest. We managed to squeeze down some super narrow canyons barely wide enough for the boat to get through. Luckily we found a place wide enough to turn around.

Afterwards, we found a beach to park at and hiked around that area. There were some cool rock formations we were able to climb up to get some great panoramic photos. I loved one of the pics I took so much that I had it blown up into a five foot wide piece of art for my wall at home.

As we headed back to the houseboat we encountered an incredibly brilliant sunset. The sky was “on fire” and became fuel for another line in the song we were still writing.

We ended the night off with dinner, drinks and a hilarious round of Cards Against Humanity.

Antelope Point Marina:

On our sixth day at the lake we went to Antelope Point Marina. We enjoyed lunch and a cocktail and then walked up and down the docks ogling the massive houseboats that were moored there. That evening Dave entertained us by reading a story he had been busy writing. It recounted a story that “Uncle” Ray had told him some time before about some crazy encounters he had had during one of his trips to Lake Powell. We all listened and laughed hysterically at the shenanigans that were reported in the story as we drank some wine and wound down the final day of our trip.

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Corsica – France’s best kept secret

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Corsica is a small island just Southeast of the French mainland in the Mediterranean sea. To tell you the truth, I didn’t know it existed until recently. Therefore, it was not on my radar as a place to visit.

A panoramic view water surrounded by rocky landscape in Corsica, France
Le Calanques De Piana, Corse, France

Planning our trip:

We came to learn about Corsica through the in-laws of our best friends daughter; a french couple, Serge and Karen R., who had recently moved to Los Angeles from Paris.

We were currently in the process of planning a trip to Europe with our friends, Dave and Karen L., to celebrate our 30th Anniversaries. We figured that since we were married the same year and we’ve been friends almost the entire time, it would be fun to see Europe together.

When Serge and Karen R., said they were going to be in France for a wedding at the same time and offered to show us around and be our “tour guides”, we couldn’t pass up the opportunity. At this point, we agreed to let them take over and plan our entire 16-day itinerary. After all, It’s not every day you get to vacation with cool people who speak the language and know their way around. The trip took us from the end of April through the middle of May.

Getting to Corsica:

After arriving in France with Dave and Karen and spending our first couple days in Paris, we took the train to Marseille. At this point, Serge and Karen R. picked us up in a rental van and we drove to Nice to board the ferry to Corsica. From here, we would all spend an entire week driving around the tiny island, literally.

Bastia to Porto Vecchio:

We arrived in Bastia the first night, had dinner, and stayed the night at Hotel La Corniche. The small hotel is situated high up with beautiful views of the surrounding hillside and a glimpse of the Mediterranean sea. The next day we took a walk in the rain to take in a bit more of the immediate scenery. After lunch we headed down the eastern coast to our Air B&B near Porto Vecchio. As was expected for spring weather it was cool and rainy during most of our three days there. Even so, we did some hiking and managed a day trip to Bonifacio on the southern coast to see the citadel, Old Town, and surrounding area.

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Porto Vecchio to Serriera:

On the second half of our week-long visit we drove up the western coast to our Air B&B in Serriera. We made several stops along the narrow, winding, cliff side road for photos of wildflowers and the incredible Les Calanques de Piana. Les Calanques are the red rock cliffs along the coast high above the sea.

While in Serriera we took a day to visit the small village of Evisa which is situated in the mountains and surrounded by the Aitone forest. During our drive we were surprised and delighted to come across herds of goats and pigs roaming around and grazing along the mountainous roadside without a care. Definitely one of my favorite moments during our stay!

The following day we drove to Marine de Porto for a tour of Genoise Tower and later on went for an amazing hike around Les Calanques de Piana where we got some breathtaking views of the rocky Mediterranean coastline.

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Serriera to Bastia:

As we left Serriera to embark on the last two days of our stay in Corsica we stopped in L’ile Rousse for gelato and shopping on our way to Barbaggio. Here, we stayed at a cute bed and breakfast among the vineyards. The little house that my husband, Jerry, and I stayed in was adorable with it’s grass covered roof!

The following day we drove to Patrimonio to check out the old church we had driven by earlier and then went for a long walk through the countryside. We just had to immerse ourselves in the vineyards before leaving. The next day we drove back to Bastia where we once again boarded the ferry. From here, we headed to Italy and the second half of our vacation in Florence and Venice!

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Tips on travel to Corsica:

Overall, Corsica is a beautiful island with a lot of beautiful scenery to take in. Don’t miss seeing the birthplace, and now museum, of Napoleon Bonaparte located in Ajaccio, or the Citadel in Bonafacio that I mentioned before.

There is a multitude of activities to explore such as hiking, swimming, snorkeling, rock climbing, and of course shopping.

Unlike Paris, I think we would have been a bit “lost” without having someone who spoke French with us. It would be helpful to know some basics before going.

Check out my blog: Europe – Helpful tips for first-time travelers for more information regarding currency exchange, phone coverage, and power.


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Craters of the Moon – A Volcanic Wonderland

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Ok, not craters of the moon but a National Monument and Preserve in Idaho where there are hundreds of square miles of lava fields more than 2000 years old.

An old leaning tree on the left atop a hill with gold and green grasses and blue mountains and sky in the backgroundSpontaneous Travel:

My husband and I traveled to Idaho Falls, Idaho recently and spontaneously decided to check out this wildly intriguing landmark full of “craters” just 90 miles west. Since I love photography, and this park was recently designated an International Dark Sky Park, I wanted to attempt a picture of the Milky Way, despite it being a bit cloudy and having a lot of smoke in the air from wildfires. We bought an air mattress so we could camp in the back of our van rather than finding a hotel 20 miles away in the town of Arco. Conveniently, right inside the entrance to the preserve there was a 42 site campground with 3 restroom buildings. They were complete with sinks and flushing toilets. And all for only $15 per night. Yay! With that and the $20 entrance fee to the park we were all in for $35.

The Golden Hour:

We arrived at Craters of the Moon just before sunset. So, after getting settled in to our spot we took off walking to find some nice shots of the landscape during the “golden hour”. I am still amazed at how stark, yet full of life, it is. There’s a variety of grasses, flowers, trees and shrubs scattered throughout the volcanic landscape making for a very surreal scene. Later that evening as the sky got darker, and the clouds miraculously cleared, we headed back out to attempt that shot of the Milky Way. We managed to get a couple but there was still a lot of smoke in the air and it wasn’t as good as we had hoped for. Better luck next time I guess.

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Craters of the Moon:

The next morning we took a drive through the park and stopped at all the different lookout and scenic trail spots. It’s not a large preserve and we were able to see most everything in less than one day. We really enjoyed Devil’s Orchard; a beautiful, half mile, wheelchair accessible, paved loop perfect for anyone who is unable to hike. We then climbed the .5 miles up Inferno Cone to see the spectacular panoramic views. This hike is only a little steep, with a vertical incline of 164 feet, and totally worth it! However, I’m a little sad we didn’t have time to make it to the caves this trip (which you need a special, but free, permit to explore by the way). I understand they’re pretty cool.

Two Pomeranian dogs in the Craters of the Moon campground with trees and shrubs in the backgroundTraveling with pets:

Since this was a spur of the moment trip we weren’t prepared for a lot of hiking let alone spelunking. The other problem was that we had our dogs with us. Although they are allowed in the campground area they are not allowed on the trails. And we didn’t want to leave them locked in the van with the engine running and the air conditioning on for more than a few minutes at a time. Remember to keep your furry friends in mind when planning your trip. They’re a joy to have along but a burden when trying to sightsee places that are not pet friendly.

We’ve been to a few National Parks and Monuments but so far Craters of the Moon has the most unexpected sights; it’s so very different and beautifully kept. I hope you get a chance to see it soon.

Onward…