We woke up on Day 10 to a view of Arthur’s Seat from our apartment window. After days of driving and exploring remote ruins, it felt wonderfully refreshing to be based in a vibrant city again. Scotland was already winning us over.
We began the morning with a gentle uphill walk along the Royal Mile to Edinburgh Castle for our 9:30am tour. Along the way, we passed the charming little 16th-century Queen Mary’s Bathhouse, a picturesque turreted building just outside the Palace of Holyroodhouse.
The castle itself felt more like a living museum than the ancient ruins we’d seen earlier in the trip, but its position high above the city delivered spectacular views. The cannon gunports offered perfect “framed” shots of the rooftops and spires below, and we were charmed by the historic Dog Cemetery—dating back to 1837—with its tiny headstones honoring soldiers’ and officers’ loyal dogs (and a few other pets).
After leaving the castle, we wandered down Cockburn Street and enjoyed a relaxed lunch of wine and charcuterie at a cozy spot. Feeling revived, we made one of the best decisions of the trip: hopping on a double-decker hop-on hop-off bus tour. It gave us an excellent overview of the city’s layout and helped us decide where to spend more time. After walking more than six miles already, the ride was a very welcome rest for our feet.
The bus route took us past several standout landmarks, including the towering Scott Monument and Calton Hill. We hopped off to explore the hill’s impressive monuments: the Nelson Monument, the Dugald Stewart Monument, and the unfinished Scottish National Monument.
We returned to our apartment in the late afternoon and cooked a simple but satisfying dinner—bunless burgers topped with cheddar, bacon, and eggs. Having a kitchen during this trip has been an absolute blessing after long days of sightseeing.
Practical Tips for Edinburgh
• Book Edinburgh Castle tickets in advance, especially for morning slots—they sell out quickly. (This destination is included with the Historic Scotland Explorer Pass.)
• Take a hop-on hop-off bus tour on your first day. It’s one of the smartest ways to get oriented.
• The Royal Mile has some steep sections—comfortable walking shoes are essential.
• Staying somewhere with a kitchen helps you balance restaurant meals, save money, and recharge after busy days.
Fun Facts
• Arthur’s Seat is an extinct volcano that last erupted around 350 million years ago. At 251 meters (823 feet) tall, it offers some of the best views over Edinburgh. In 1836, boys discovered 17 mysterious miniature coffins containing tiny wooden figures in a cave on its slopes—their purpose is still unknown.
• The Royal Mile is actually 1.07 miles long and follows the ridge of an ancient volcano, which explains its steep sections.
• Queen Mary’s Bath House (16th century) is more likely a garden pavilion or summer house than an actual bathhouse. The story of Mary, Queen of Scots bathing in wine or goat’s milk here is a charming legend with no historical proof.
• Edinburgh Castle has been besieged at least 26 times, making it one of the most attacked places in Britain. It sits atop an extinct volcano (Castle Rock). The cannon batteries and gunports in this area are part of the Argyle Battery and Half Moon Battery. This is also home to the famous One O’Clock Gun, which has been fired daily (except Sundays) at 1:00 pm since 1861 to help ships in the Firth of Forth set their clocks.
• The Dog Cemetery dates to the 1840s and holds about 20 small headstones for officers’ pets and regimental mascots. The first burial was Fido in 1847; the dogs often accompanied soldiers on global campaigns. It’s viewable only from above to protect the site.
• The Scott Monument is a 61-meter (200 ft) Gothic tower dedicated to Sir Walter Scott, the author of Ivanhoe and many other classics. It’s the second-largest monument to a writer in the world and features 68 statues of characters from his novels. Scott is depicted at the base with his beloved deerhound, Maida.
• Calton Hill is another volcanic outcrop and part of Edinburgh’s UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its collection of monuments gives it a dramatic, almost Athenian feel—earning the city its nickname “Athens of the North.”
• The Nelson Monument looks like an upturned telescope and honors Admiral Lord Nelson’s victory at the Battle of Trafalgar (1805). It once had a time ball that dropped at 1 pm to help ships synchronize clocks.
• The Dugald Stewart Monument is an elegant circular temple honoring the Scottish Enlightenment philosopher. Its design by William Henry Playfair perfectly frames the city views and is one of the most photographed spots on the hill.
• The Scottish National Monument was meant to be a full replica of the Parthenon in Athens to honor Scottish soldiers who died in the Napoleonic Wars. Funds ran out, leaving the dramatic unfinished “ruin” you see today—often called “Scotland’s Disgrace” or “Edinburgh’s Folly.
Final Thoughts from Our First Day in Scotland
Edinburgh felt alive, historic, and full of character. The blend of medieval streets, grand architecture, and energetic city buzz made us fall in love with Scotland almost instantly. We couldn’t wait to explore more of the capital and beyond in the coming days.
Next Up:
Day trips from Edinburgh including The Kelpies (the giant horse sculptures), the Falkirk Wheel, and the Wallace Monument — plus more evening exploring in the city.
