Introduction
On Day 12 we left Edinburgh and began our drive north and west toward Inverness. This was one of our favorite road trip days in Scotland, filled with dramatic coastal views and historic sites.
Day 12: Coastal Scotland Adventure
We started the day heading up the eastern coast. Our first stop was Arbroath Abbey, a towering medieval ruin. The red sandstone walls standing against the sky were quite striking.
Next, we visited Dunnottar Castle — hands down one of the most dramatic locations of the entire trip. The castle sits 160 feet up on cliffs overlooking the North Sea with crystal-clear water below. The views were breathtaking, and it’s easy to see why it has been used in so many films and photos. We spent a long time walking around and soaking in the scenery.
After a full morning of exploring, we stopped for an early dinner at The Shepherds Rest, enjoying burgers and fish & chips. We then made our way to East Aquhorthies Stone Circle. We were the only people there, which made it feel extra magical. The peaceful setting in the open countryside was a lovely contrast to some of the busier sites.
Helpful Tips for the Northeast Coast Drive
• Dunnottar Castle is a must-visit — arrive with plenty of time to explore and take photos, as the steep path and cliffs require good footwear and caution, especially with wind or rain.
• Check the weather before heading out, as coastal winds can be strong and change quickly.
• The English Heritage Pass does not cover Scottish sites, so you’ll need the Historic Scotland Explorer Pass or pay individual entry fees (Dunnottar and Arbroath have reasonable separate tickets).
• Bring layers — it can be quite windy along the coast, even on sunny days.
• For stone circles like East Aquhorthies, wear sturdy shoes for uneven grassy terrain and consider a small donation if there’s an honesty box for road maintenance.
• Plan your fuel and snacks, as services can be sparse between sites; pack water and binoculars for wildlife spotting along the cliffs.
Fun Facts
Arbroath Abbey: Founded in 1178 by King William the Lion as a memorial to his friend Thomas Becket, this was once one of Scotland’s grandest monasteries. It’s famously linked to the 1320 Declaration of Arbroath, a bold letter asserting Scottish independence that may have influenced parts of the American Declaration of Independence. In 1951, the stolen Stone of Destiny was dramatically returned and left on the abbey’s high altar. The abbey’s distinctive “Round O” window once guided sailors home at night.
Dunnottar Castle: This clifftop fortress hid the Honours of Scotland (the Scottish Crown Jewels) from Oliver Cromwell’s army in the 1650s — they were smuggled out in sacks and buried in a church floor for safety. William Wallace famously attacked an English garrison here in 1297. The castle has starred in films like Hamlet (1990, with Mel Gibson) and inspired settings in Brave. Mary Queen of Scots visited twice in the 1560s.
East Aquhorthies Stone Circle: Built around 4,000 years ago, this is one of the best-preserved recumbent stone circles unique to northeast Scotland. It features 11 upright stones (mostly pinkish porphyry) with a massive recumbent stone lying on its side, flanked by two tall stones. The circle is nearly perfectly intact — no stones were re-erected — and offers stunning views over the countryside.
Banff (our stop for the night): This historic royal burgh on the northern coast dates back to at least the 12th century and was a busy trading port exporting salmon to Europe. Its name likely ties to Gaelic roots linked to a “holy woman,” reflected in the town’s coat of arms featuring the Virgin Mary. The area has deep maritime history, including one of the UK’s largest surviving ice houses used for salmon storage.
Final Thoughts
This day reminded us why Scotland’s northeast coast is so special. The combination of dramatic clifftop castles and quiet, ancient stone circles created a perfect balance. We arrived at our little flat in Banff (on the northern coast) tired but very happy with the day. It was one of those perfect road-trip days where history, scenery, and solitude all came together beautifully.
Next Up:
Our final day on the northeast coast before arriving in Inverness, including Bow Fiddle Rock, Elgin Cathedral, Clava Cairns, and Culloden Battlefield.
