Introduction
Day 18 started under a bit of rain and a lot of fog, but that didn’t stop us from heading out to explore more of North Yorkshire. What began as a grey morning turned into a beautiful day filled with stunning historic sites, quaint coastal villages, and one last classic English dinner before we leave England.
Day 18: Rievaulx Abbey, Robin Hood’s Bay & Whitby Highlights
We woke up to rain and thick fog but pressed on to Rievaulx Abbey. Wow! What a beautiful site. The weather cleared up nicely as we wandered the extensive ruins, and I was struck by the time and effort it takes to excavate and preserve these historic buildings and artifacts. The scale and setting of the abbey in its peaceful valley were truly impressive.
On our way back to Whitby we stopped at Robin Hood’s Bay, a quaint little seaside village, to take in the views of the North Sea. The tightly packed cottages tumbling down the steep hillside toward the water give it a storybook feel.
We made another quick stop to see the Larpool Viaduct before heading back to our flat. This impressive brick structure spans the River Esk valley and is a striking piece of Victorian engineering.
In Whitby we decided on one last fish & chips dinner before leaving England (although we opted for salad instead of potatoes today). First, though, we walked up the hill to see the Whalebone Arch. From there you get a classic view across the way to Whitby Abbey, which we will check out tomorrow.
After dinner we took a walk around town and found ourselves on the other side of the inlet for a beautiful sunset. A perfect way to close out the day.
Helpful Tips for Visiting These Spots
• Check the weather forecast — Yorkshire weather can change quickly from fog and rain to clear skies.
• Rievaulx Abbey is managed by English Heritage; check opening times and consider buying tickets in advance in peak season.
• Parking at Robin Hood’s Bay is limited at the top of the village — the lower streets are very narrow and steep, so it’s best to walk down.
• Wear comfortable shoes for exploring abbey ruins, village lanes, and the hills of Whitby.
• Larpool Viaduct is now part of a walking/cycling path (the Cinder Track) — easy to access for a quick photo stop.
• The Whalebone Arch is on West Cliff and offers one of the best framed views of Whitby Abbey — great for photos at any time of day, especially near sunset.
• Fish and chips are a Whitby classic, but many places offer lighter options if you prefer.
• Allow time to simply wander Whitby’s streets and harbour — the town rewards unhurried exploration.
Fun Facts
Rievaulx Abbey
• Founded in 1132, it was the first Cistercian abbey in the north of England.
• Under its most famous abbot, Aelred of Rievaulx (1147–1167), the community grew to around 140 monks and 500 lay brothers at its peak.
• The abbey was suppressed in 1538 during Henry VIII’s Dissolution of the Monasteries. The extensive ruins that remain are among the finest surviving Cistercian buildings in England and were later admired by Romantic artists and writers.
Robin Hood’s Bay
• The origin of the name is uncertain and there is no solid evidence that the legendary Robin Hood ever visited.
• In the 18th century it was one of the busiest smuggling communities on the Yorkshire coast — locals used the maze of narrow alleys and alleged connecting passages so effectively that a bale of silk was said to be able to travel from the beach to the top of the village without seeing daylight.
• It was once a more important port than Whitby on some early sea charts.
Larpool Viaduct
• Also known as the Esk Valley Viaduct, this 13-arch brick structure was completed in 1884 for the Scarborough & Whitby Railway.
• It is 915 feet (279 m) long and rises 120 feet (37 m) above the River Esk. It was built using around five million bricks.
• The railway closed in 1965; the viaduct now forms part of the popular Cinder Track walking and cycling route. It is even mentioned in Bram Stoker’s Dracula.
Whalebone Arch, Whitby
• The arch commemorates Whitby’s important 18th- and 19th-century whaling industry.
• Whale jawbones were traditionally displayed as a sign of a successful voyage. The current arch (the third to stand on this spot) frames a classic view of Whitby Abbey across the harbour.
• Earlier versions used real whale bones; more recent discussions have involved replacing them with durable replicas for ethical and practical reasons.
Final Thoughts
Even with a damp and foggy start, Day 18 delivered beautiful historic sites, charming coastal scenery, and a lovely sunset. Rievaulx Abbey was a real highlight, and the combination of Robin Hood’s Bay, the viaduct, and Whitby’s classic views made for a satisfying and relaxed day. One last fish-and-chips meal felt like the perfect send-off to England.
Next Up:
Our final touring day in England — exploring the atmospheric Gothic ruins of Whitby Abbey (the inspiration for Bram Stoker’s Dracula), a stop at the mysterious Rudston Monolith (the tallest megalith in the UK), and then the drive south toward the London area as we prepare for our adventures in Ireland.
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